The XBOX 360 HD-DVD high power laser thread

[clajef]

Sure, IgorT. Be my guest. I am pretty sure that the operational characteristics of your average framistator are fairly non-deterministic unless you go for the fully trogulating variant. It seems that unless you ripsnipe the inclusive franchusintle during the assembly, well, you know. Dangerous stuff - but modulated properly by your trogulation system all is well.

JeffP

 

[IgorT]

;D Indeed...

Anyway, where did you get that name?

Or was it just random neuron discharge?

 

[clajef]

The "trogulating framistator" was indeed a ripoff of a professional double talker, but for the life of me I cannot recall who it was. No, I ain't that darned funny. But how about a really good/bad joke?

As migration approached, two elderly vultures doubted they could make the trip south, so they decided to go by airplane.

When they checked their baggage, the attendant noticed that they were carrying two dead raccoons. "Do you wish to check the raccoons through as luggage?" she asked.

"No, thanks," replied the vultures. "They're carrion."

JeffP

 

[Scog]

*Slow chuckle builds to deep laughter*

 

[jamilm9]

so 90ma is safe about 100.no heat sinking.

 

[IgorT]

Well, the AixiZ module itself is a heatsink.. But it might not be enough for long duty cycles..
I have several 16x reds, with no more heatsinking than an AixiZ module. It's ok for under a minute, but after that it gets hot. Blu Rays dissipate much less heat than that:

- A red at 300mA is dissipating around 0.7W of heat - 3V x 0.3A = 0.9W - 0.2W (output power) = 0.7W..
- A Blu Ray at 100mA will dissipate less heat than that, 0.4W of heat - 5V x 0.1A = 0.5W - 0.1W (output) = 0.4W <- slightly more than half of the red.


So a Blu Ray at a safe current is not gonna get as hot as a 16x red if both are only in an AixiZ module. In fact, you may not even feel it with your fingers.. But touch it with your lips and it'll feel quite hot.
The power drops for 4mW or so, and it would probably drop a bit more, if left on longer. If you want the power to be stable, you do need a heatsink. But just for protection of the diode, it might not be essential. They go through much more abuse inside a computer drive. On the other hand, heatsinking might prolong it's life a little.

Also since without heatsinking, you would need more current for a certain power, i am using aluminum heatsinks, to keep them cool. Especially, since i have a feeling many people will be leaving them on for minutes at a time. I most certainly do. Can't stop looking at it..



Oh, and 90mA can give you anywhere between 67 - 80mW after a clear acrylic lens. There would seem to be differences between individual diodes.
Dirt or dust on the lens can further reduce this by 4mW or so.

Once we have Blu Rays running at 200mA, they will get almost as hot as an open can tho, because of the higher voltage. There, heatsinking will be essential.

 

[cbrian4]

ARGH my driver and module are at the post office but its memorial day so i cant pick them up! i can't wait to finish this [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]

Well heres my build:

 

[cbrian4]

And here:

 

[flogged]

Looks good. It seems to take forever to make one of these, order all the parts via mail, plan, assemble ,build. Always a tense moment when you hit the switch the first time. Good luck.

 

[cbrian4]

Looks good. It seems to take forever to make one of these, order all the parts via mail, plan, assemble ,build. Always a tense moment when you hit the switch the first time. Good luck.

Thank you im really nervous about my diode but i have a spare drive just in case. I KNOW i haven't killed it by esd but how hard is it to destroy one from impacts and bumps?

 

[IgorT]

Always a tense moment when you hit the switch the first time.

Indeed.. I prepared everything, set the driver to 90mA and then i was scared to push the button..

Now i just turn it on when i want to enjoy the beam... You get used to it eventually...

 

[flogged]

Thank you im really nervous about my diode but i have a spare drive just in case. I KNOW i haven't killed it by esd but how hard is it to destroy one from impacts and bumps?

I think the diode itself is reasonably impact resistant - the diode can and wire connections in it may not be. I take it you're going to solder everything together - if not taped batteries and crimped wires can lead to annoying continuity (flickering) problems.

Did you test the diode prior to assembly? I've got a trimable DDL circuit laying around I use to test diodes with. For my last build (803 diode) I did not test the diode - I extracted, soldered, and then thermal glued (permanent!) the diode into its housing, which in turn was glued into the box. So,, I was very nervous when I hit the switch the first time. A lot to have wasted if it didn't light. At first I thought the diode was bad, it came to life using 45mA of current (when I hit the switch on the diode the first time I've it attached to a DMM for trimming) and it was still looking like an LED. It wasn't until the current increased past 50mA that it really started to brighten and lase.

 

[IgorT]

Thank you im really nervous about my diode but i have a spare drive just in case. I KNOW i haven't killed it by esd but how hard is it to destroy one from impacts and bumps?

My first PS3 diode fell out of the heatsink onto the desk only 10cm lower.. It just wasn't the same as the other one..
I always have something for them to land on since then..

But those are weird anyway. I think these are more sturdy.. If it didn't fall from to high, it should be fine.


ESD is not really so much of a danger, unless you provide a discharge path. I used a PSU to power the driver for my second PS3 diode.. When i went to reposition it, i felt a spark and it lost 3/4 of brightness..


I haven't lost a diode ever since i only use battery power.. I made myself a simple battery-PSU, that has a big lead battery in the box, and two displays for current and voltage. It can either supply other drivers or act as a driver itself, if i put it in current regulation mode.

It's the ultimate diode testing device. I put the diode in front of my meter, and carefully adjust the current - one pot for big adjustments and the other for small adjustments. I see the voltage, current and power at the same time, which tells me a lot about each individual diode.


Anyway, if you only use batteries for powering the driver, you should be safe from ESD, especially now, when there is lots of humidity in the air. I still ground myself before handling diodes tho.

Impact danger is a problem if it's strong enough to separate the die from the base. I have a diode where the die separated from the base and is hanging loosely on the hair thin wires.. But that one is an open can pump, and it probably happened during mounting.

 

[cbrian4]

[quote author=cbrian4 link=1209940381/420#426 date=1211832850]
Thank you im really nervous about my diode but i have a spare drive just in case. I KNOW i haven't killed it by esd but how hard is it to destroy one from impacts and bumps?

I think the diode itself is reasonably impact resistant - the diode can and wire connections in it may not be. I take it you're going to solder everything together - if not taped batteries and crimped wires can lead to annoying continuity (flickering) problems.

Did you test the diode prior to assembly? I've got a trimable DDL circuit laying around I use to test diodes with. For my last build (803 diode) I did not test the diode - I extracted, soldered, and then thermal glued (permanent!) the diode into its housing, which in turn was glued into the box. So,, I was very nervous when I hit the switch the first time. A lot to have wasted if it didn't light. At first I thought the diode was bad, it came to life using 45mA of current (when I hit the switch on the diode the first time I've it attached to a DMM for trimming) and it was still looking like an LED. It wasn't until the current increased past 50mA that it really started to brighten and lase.
[/quote]

Well im not going to solder wires to the batteries but everything else will be. I have an aluminum foil pad wrapped around each wire leading to the batteries to ensure a good connection. I tested with a light bulb and it does not flicker at all.

 

[IgorT]

The important part is that the diode doesn't get disconnected from the driver, as that would kill it if it reconnected (capacitor charged to higher voltage).

You shouldn't try to solder to the batteries.. But you also shouldn't use aluminum foil. Get some battery holders. They are cheap and make your life a lot easier.

 

[jamilm9]

so should i go with 90 or 100ma