The XBOX 360 HD-DVD high power laser thread

[thejunkmonger]

boo ray you can have that one lol i'm trying to build a (blu-i hope i dont screw up my bluray diode because i dont know crap  ray)lol

I'm in the same boat LOL

 

[360freak]

Even if these are 'only' good for 50mW, for only $40.00 you'll find no cheaper violet currently.

Oh I beg to differ. I just picked up a broken 360 hd dvd drive off of ebay for $10 and $15 dollars shipping with the high powered diode in it. Seller is techgraveyard or something. It's in the $10 blu ray diode thread in here.

 

[daguin]

Oh I beg to differ. I just picked up a broken 360 hd dvd drive off of ebay for $10 and $15 dollars shipping with the high powered diode in it. Seller is techgraveyard or something. It's in the $10 blu ray diode thread in here.

I "best offered" him at $5 each for all he had. He only sold me one :'(

But I did get the one for $5

Peace,
dave

 

[360freak]

^ Is it a high or low powered?

 

[climbak]

couple updates on my testing. we turned the lifetime test diode off today to move it to another area so we could use the table space again. I turned it back on when I left the lab, but it ran no problem for 10 days straight. We also put our new blue AR coated optics to the test. It's ridiculous. I didnt bring the table back with me but at 100mA we got 115mW! Thats more than double what we were getting with the red coated lens. I also put a new 6x together with the new optics. I forgot how amazing those diodes are. I am very very very seriously considering getting one of the expensive collimators and a blue coated lens from thorlabs to build a pointer with. here is a beam shot i took with my phone and a couple just to show how well the 2 for $15 blue protective glasses we got work.

 

[john_lawson]

got my geek unitPHR_803-t confirmed took 3 days to get here looks brand new almost didn't want to tear it apart installed in a sentek axis 38 ma rkcstr driver this diode needs more power than 38 ma so i bought the 86ma option from Ryan now help me I'm hooked on lasers and i cant stop buying STUFFFF

 

[360freak]

couple updates on my testing. we turned the lifetime test diode off today to move it to another area so we could use the table space again. I turned it back on when I left the lab, but it ran no problem for 10 days straight. We also put our new blue AR coated optics to the test. It's ridiculous. I didnt bring the table back with me but at 100mA we got 115mW! Thats more than double what we were getting with the red coated lens. I also put a new 6x together with the new optics. I forgot how amazing those diodes are. I am very very very seriously considering getting one of the expensive collimators and a blue coated lens from thorlabs to build a pointer with. here is a beam shot i took with my phone and a couple just to show how well the 2 for $15 blue protective glasses we got work.

How would one go about obtaining this lens? And whats installation like? You unscrew one and screw the other in...or what? Sorry, I'm a bit noobish, but there's so much stuff in this scene that it's pretty hard to just read up on.

 

[climbak]

the oens we are using are from thorlabs. you can order their collimating tubes with the blue coated lenses for like $120 i think or you can buy the collimators with a red coated lens for 115 plus the blue for another 89. they just screw in and out of their tubes with a spanner wrench. its not cheap for sure though.

 

[flogged]

climbak, so you got more than double the power switching to a lens with the proper coatings for ~400nm light?

I've often wondered what the difference would be. I'm guessing the coatings on the Meredith glass lens I'm using are for red. Optics are very important with a diode laser if you want a decent beam. Don't skimp on the glass, good optics will cost a bit.

 

[climbak]

yeah, with the red coated glass we were gettin 6.8mW i think with an uncoated we got 12 and with the blue coated we got 15.7. uncoated is probably fine for most people since good optics are so much money but if you want the best beam quality and most power i would recommend the thorlabs piece.one thing to look at too; maybe check the unmounted lenses they sell and see if any of them would fit a meredith module.

 

[happytomato]

Best way to get the diodes out of the heatsinks is a vice and hacksaw right?

 

[Kai]

New to the forums but have been back and forth for some time now. Got a blu-ray on the way and slowly getting my parts in. Good info keep it up!

 

[IgorT]

That's annoying, it's saying that there is no info. It was dispatched on the 8th.

Why are you so worried? Mine were shipped on 7th and they arrived at the customs yesterday. And i live on the same side of the planet, more or less... I usually get stuff from HK 6-7days after it leaves HK.

I don't think you have anything to worry about.

 

[IgorT]

Best way to get the diodes out of the heatsinks is a vice and hacksaw right?

Did you finally get them?

I usually snip with sharp cutters from both sides little by little, while being careful, that nothing actually bends and pushes against the can.
I've had diodes soldered into heatsinks, and bending the heatsink helped. Here it is dome shaped, so some cutting may be required. But a vice and a hacksaw seem like overkill to me.

I would feel more confident with my cutting "pliers".. Don't know what they're called.

 

[john_lawson]

yea i used side cutters also a small pair of blue-point type carefull though i put a small gouge in my seciond diode making it kinda hard to re-install

 

[danq]

I would feel more confident with my cutting "pliers".. Don't know what they're called.

I used to be in the electronic repair business... a long time ago... back then the primary vernacular term for them was "dykes". Needless to say, sometime in the 1970's or so, saying "toss me that pair of dykes" passed into disfavor :


I think they're more formally called diagonal cutters? "toss me that pair of diagonals" just doesn't have the same ring to it. [sub] [/sub]