Thanks a bunch, hopefully I can manage this and make it completely waterproof.

Yep...

Heatsink - $20 dollars plus $3 dollars shipping. Send me a PM!

Did you use an AixiZ module to peform this build? In your instructions you say that you should solder the wires from the FlexDrive to the diode mounted in the aixiz module. But your pictures just look like the diode is mounted in the heat sink that jayrob makes.

Also, for the 405-G-1 that jayrob sells, do I need to order the entire assembly or just the lens.

Edit: Nevermind, i see that you've only used the upper portion of the aixiz module and have ordered them.

Well I managed to burn up two GGWs trying to test them after I set up the 200 mA for the Flexdrive V5. Two more sleds in the mail >:0. I think I was tapping too hard trying to put the diode into the aixiz for the first one as it would flicker on and off and only turn on very dim if at all. The second one came on bright for a second and then just shut off. The only thing I can think is that I didn't solder the wires from together from the driver to the wires from the GGW. I retested the driver and it is sitting steady at 200 mA after I fried both diodes. I don't know what I did wrong but there went $100 in blu rays in the trash. I then soldered the wires together and tried to test the diode a second time, but it neither diode would turn on.

Observations:

Driver output voltage 2.10 V
Driver output current 200mA

Bummer, it sucks when that happens. Been there done that.
Try setting it to 180mA. If I'm not mistaken, ggw's will last longer at that current level.

Here is my best advice for you. Take your time.
Good luck and Post a picture of it when it's working.
later,
iskor12

A good rule of thumb is to always short the leads from the driver together after setting the current in case you did not do this...

If you had your test load connected with your DMM, and turned off the tail switch, then the driver will not have any possibility to have the cap charged.

But even if you turned it off before disconnecting your DMM and test load. It is still a good habit to short the leads together before connecting your LD. (just in case)

For the question about my 405-G-1. you will be removing the AixiZ focus ring from the top of the lens. And after you get it adjusted to the focus you want, then you will loosen the heatsink set screw (if necessary), and position the module so that your lens will not protrude past the face of the heatsink. Because the heatsink must be pressing the glass flashlight lens against the o-ring seal...

whoah, very cool. Imagine swimming along when someone whips out their waterproof laser.

I give up...I've ruined 4 GGW laser diodes in a month! I have no idea why they're failing. I ordered a Flexdrive preset to 180mA and hooked it up to the GGW with an RCR123A from batterystation.com. Within 30 seconds it failed. I tested the output of the flex with a test load and it was correctly set to 180mA. The RCR voltage was 3.6V.

I just need to ask someone to build a blu ray for me if I want one that works.

Man that build is pretty sweet

@rstick - What is the power source your using to power the driver while testing the current output ?

I was using the RCR123A at 3.6V

And your sure you've wired everything up correctly ? Any GGW shouldn't be failing at only 180mA. There is something your missing. If your driver was preset by Dr. Lava it must be something else. Hmm.. If you want you can try PM'ing me and I'll try to see what I can do to help but I'm not guaranteeing anything haha. I remember being in the same boat as you first starting out. Man I know how annoying(and expensive!) not getting a build working is, and even worse blowing a diode or two(or 4 XP). But I don't want this turning into a thread jack haha sorry iskor12 !

On topic though. I greatly admire this build. I was going to attempt this myself and it's been 5 weeks and have yet to receive my order from DX... Hopefully one of these days I will get my order .....

No worries on the thread jack.

It is possible that you might be to rough on your ggw diodes or that you might have taken to long to solder your diode. The are a lot of things that can cause these problems.

Thanks for the complements.

Success!!! Finally!!!




Thank you jayrob, flaminpyro, drlava, and iskor12.

Once this thing fired up, it was all worth it!

Great job.....
Looks Great. I'm glad to see you got it working. Have you tried it underwater yet?

After all the drama I caused myself, I'm afraid to get it wet

The instructions you put together we extremely helpful...I'm still impressed with the quality of this build, you picked an excellent host. I was also surprised in how much room there was for the driver. I even wrapped the driver in electrical tape to keep it from touching the sides of the aluminum insert and still had plenty of room.

It's still my favorite build. I haven't made another one yet....I will when I get some money.
12X

You wouldn't think that there is much room just by looking at it, but it's a pretty good design, so it all fit's with ease. It's a very small host for what's in it.

FYI: It looks amazing underwater. Just make sure all of your seals are good. The one at the lens seems to be the most cryticle. Also it's recomended to turn it on while it's still above the water.

I would like to build one of these... and i was looking it over and i was wondering where i could get the lava v4 drive online. I purchased the flash light and I still need to buy a diode can anyone give me a link where i can get them. Thanks.

Welcome.
Lava FlexDrive.
HighTechDealZ diodes in sleds. HighTechDealZ Bare diode / diodes pressed into aixiz.
Laser safety glasses. You Can easily damage your eyes without laser glasses. If you might build higher powered lasers consider better glasses.

Regarding your 12X water proof laser...
I originally intended my 12X to be water proof, and even came up with a pretty neat way to keep it water tight and focusable, but opted to keep it "un-waterproof." I can still make the modification, but I don't think I will anytime soon.
My reason is this: With an AR coated glass window, I lose >5% of the power. With uncoated glass, I lose 12% of the power. Now, that may not sound like much, but 12% of 480mW is about 58mW (5% is 24mW). This almost defeats the purpose of using Larry's hi-power lens.

So be wary... You will lose a LOT of power unless you are using AR coated optics. And this power that you are losing is going right back into your laser diode. If you push your diode harder, the numbers will increase. 5% of 500mW is 25mW. 12% of 500mW is 60mW. That's 60mW being introduced back into your diode as heat directly on the die. At 500mW and assuming approximately 5.8Vf and 350mA current draw, the total power going into your laser is about 1.97W. If it is outputting 500mW, then 1.47W is being released as heat. If 60mW is being reflected back into the laser, then your diode needs to dissipate 1.53W of heat... and the worst part is, your Class IV 500mW 12X turns into a Class IIIB 440mW 12X.
The bigger, the output power is, the bigger the "measly" ~12% loss is.

I understand all of this...that is why I have AR coated optics. My whole point of using Jayrobs blu-ray lens was to counter act the effects of the power loss due to poor optics.

Plus in the end, if I want the extra power, it only takes 30 seconds to take out the lens and to adjust everything. It's not that big of a deal.

I recently received a new light that is the same exact model that I recomend for this build from DX. I am sad to say that the quality of this light has gone down durasticly.

This in turn could effect how water tight this build will be in the end. Please make sure that all of your seals are good before submerging your build underwater.

This host, even in it's lower quality state, should still be a good host for this build.
You might have to buy bettter o-rings for it though.

so what is water made of? H2O, and how can you explain, you can light flares under water? :P

I didnt know that could be possible. I thought that all the surrounding water would dissipate any heat generated from the laser

You know? I managed to get my flashlight housing laser to be waterproof under 10 feet of water for 2 mins. I just used a lot of teflon tape instead of O-rings because the O-rings that came with it dont work.

Are you going to trust that teflon tape after removing the battery a few times to recharge?
I would much rather have a design using 2 good o-rings per seal, or just 1 if it tests out good.