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FrozenGate by Avery

Pioneer 16X BDR-209DBK

Yep this is what they sent me to show you what I mean. Maybe they have got it figured out by now as I did let them know.:)
nt32z.jpg
 
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Hello all-
Newbie here. I was interested in building one of these into a lab-type unit (current-limited bench supply, fan-cooled heatsink) for use around 1W. Can I expect a decent lifetime in this type of setup? Can these be switched on and off (say 10Hz rate) without damage, or will inrush current kill them?

Thanks,
clickrmike
 
Hello all-
Newbie here. I was interested in building one of these into a lab-type unit (current-limited bench supply, fan-cooled heatsink) for use around 1W. Can I expect a decent lifetime in this type of setup? Can these be switched on and off (say 10Hz rate) without damage, or will inrush current kill them?

Thanks,
clickrmike

I think this diode is still new enough that longevity is not yet well defined. Some members may be able to post the specifics of failures they have seen, but nobody is going to be able to assure you that you can get hundreds of hours out of some setup. If you look back a few posts in this thread you might find an answer to the second part of your question since all evidence points to a failure caused by pulsing.
 
Thanks for the response...I suppose we will have to see how well these will last over time.

So we have one data point for failure with pulsed, but it wasn't really clear what caused the pulsing in that instance. It certainly wasn't entended. I wonder if the LD would survive a less dramatic switch event. I suppose I'll have to try it and risk sacrificing an expensive LD to the Smoke God.

I have used mechanical interrupters (shutters and choppers) in the past and don't like them much. I was trying to avoid using one.

I will post in the S06J thread, but do you know of any 405LD that could be switched (using a TTL-modulated driver for example)?

clickmrmike
 
Received the sled I linked to in Post 94. It's identical in all respects to the pictures in the OP. I haven't tore it down yet to verify it has the flat package 650nm. Looks like the vendor listened you Mr. DTR and took corrective action. Thank you very much for the information you provided in this thread.

I will report when I break down the unit, but it may not be anytime soon. Got a lot of stuff going on right now.
 
Any other deaths/issues with these diodes? Looking to get one soon; I'm leaning away from 700mA, but not sure if I should go 550mA or 600mA. Either of those will deliver more beam power than my now-defunct LaserBTB 405nm.
 
I've been running mine at 666ma with no issues. It still lives ! :)
 
I've been running mine at 666ma with no issues. It still lives ! :)

You realize that "666" is the mark of the devil (or Beast) don't you know.
Are trying to tell us something???? :>) Been looking to put one in a c11 host
form Mrcrouse, maybe have it set at 600ma to be on the conservative side,
longevity rather than all out power.
 
I know. I hadn't named the build yet and had tested the diode. I knew I wanted to set my drive to 660ma. While adjusting the drive it hit 666ma. I decided to leave it there and call the build "Mark of the Beast". :) Seemed appropriate. I had just sacrificed a blue ray burner and the thing will burn the Devil out of you. :)
 
I know. I hadn't named the build yet and had tested the diode. I knew I wanted to set my drive to 660ma. While adjusting the drive it hit 666ma. I decided to leave it there and call the build "Mark of the Beast". :) Seemed appropriate. I had just sacrificed a blue ray burner and the thing will burn the Devil out of you. :)

LOL ....I knew that was method to the madness.
 
I'm planning on doing another round or two of the lab-stand type photos this summer and definitely want 405nm to be in the lineup. The host, more than likely, will be a C6 with copper heatsink. With that in mind, how much heat do these put off at 600mA and what duty cycle are you using with that current? Is the heat at 600mA substantially worse than at, say, 550mA or even 500mA?

That is the downside to the rainbow photos: they require long on-times (minutes) for the lasers due to having to aim them, and then take the shots. I'm not worried about anything that I have now, and not really worried about common 532nm modules being an issue either. But these 405's, they're the ones that like to die a lot, so hopefully I can avoid that.

But that is one of the planned purposes for my not-too-far-off 405nm build. 550mA seems like a good balance to me, what do you think?

If I want a 1W 405nm I can just build that later as a separate project.
 
The two things that end most laser diodes are heat (too much) and overdriving the with too much current or voltage. (heat again)
Some are lost to static electricity but, that usually happen at assembly when proper antistatic handling is not observed.
Heatsinking like that done in labby lasers with fan forced air will definitely increase run time and not driving to produce peak power
will add life also. Most people seem to overdrive the diodes to get all the power they can in expense of long life.
In most cases the diodes are run from 50 to 200% of the recommended max current stated on the manufacture's specsheet.
Duty cycles are very short when driven so hard and the heatsink is not able to carry away (sink) enough heat to stop thermal runaway.
That being said, proper heatsinking and driving the diode within spec will equal long life and long duty cycles. But wear's the fun in that! :>)

DTR has current options for the 16X BDR-209DBK from 450ma to 700ma, so I think 550ma ( or 600ma ) would be looking to long life and duty cycles. Like you said earlier,
this is a new diode with not much long term data, so....... we are still in beta.
 
LOL ....I knew that was method to the madness.
There is always madness. I always think I have a method for it. :crackup:

I'm planning on doing another round or two of the lab-stand type photos this summer and definitely want 405nm to be in the lineup. The host, more than likely, will be a C6 with copper heatsink. With that in mind, how much heat do these put off at 600mA and what duty cycle are you using with that current? Is the heat at 600mA substantially worse than at, say, 550mA or even 500mA?

That is the downside to the rainbow photos: they require long on-times (minutes) for the lasers due to having to aim them, and then take the shots. I'm not worried about anything that I have now, and not really worried about common 532nm modules being an issue either. But these 405's, they're the ones that like to die a lot, so hopefully I can avoid that.

But that is one of the planned purposes for my not-too-far-off 405nm build. 550mA seems like a good balance to me, what do you think?

If I want a 1W 405nm I can just build that later as a separate project.
Cool ! That should be a fun shoot. Can't wait to see the pics ! I need to get off my butt and back to the bench and taking pics. Been kind of busy with house and work stuff.
I really doubt there would be a great difference in heat between 550ma and 600ma. But I would think there would be some. Even at 550ma the thing is putting out what, around 800mw ? Personally without an LPM I can't see the difference between 800mw and 1000mw. The pic in my sig is of the one I set to 666ma. It's in a Survival Laser SS host with copper heat sink. I'm guessing I had it on about 3 minutes taking that pic. It wasn't hot but it was warmer than I would normally let it get. I got carried away playing with different exposure settings and thought "Hmm, that's been on awhile. I better check it" :)
 
How hot do these get? I was thinking about putting one in a standard SL host with a standard Al heatsink,
but wasn't sure if it would take away the heat fast enough.
 
This is a little off topic, by why are sleds available for sale individually anyway? No complaints, but I find it difficult to believe that anyone rally repairs computer blu ray drives in today's unfortunate throwaway culture.
 





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