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Phr build!!

bloompyle

bloompyle

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In a few hours, I will finally build my planned PHR!:drool: After two dead PHR's from bad hanlding, my 3rd is still packed away, and has only been touched to make sure it lights up. So, I'll fit it into a module in a little bit, then soulder on my driver, and that's all I'll have for the time being. A module...but hey! Better than nothing! Atleast I can run it without killing it! I'll just have a 9-Volt holder souldered onto the driver for power, once I get a host I'll just desoulder it then put it in the host =D Could somebody post a quick refresher on how I get the driver onto the module/diode? Positive pin on the +LD, and negative on the -LD? Just pin to driver? Or pin to wire to driver? Then, I have a + and - 'IN' side. With two little tabs on each side, the LD side has the two tabs right next to eachother. A diagram would be nice I guess, I might just google it though. THANKS!!! I cant wait =DDD
 
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AznRice

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it depends on your driver. If your using something similar to the the Flex Drive with the holes then you need to use wires. If your using a Rkcstr then you can just solder it onto the diode. However I find that wires do just fine and prefer it more.
 
bloompyle

bloompyle

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AznRice said:
it depends on your driver. If your using something similar to the the Flex Drive with the holes then you need to use wires. If your using a Rkcstr then you can just solder it onto the diode. However I find that wires do just fine and prefer it more.
Click to expand...

Its a Rckstr micro v3
 
Morgan

Morgan

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AznRice said:
it depends on your driver. If your using something similar to the the Flex Drive with the holes then you need to use wires. If your using a Rkcstr then you can just solder it onto the diode. However I find that wires do just fine and prefer it more.
Click to expand...

It's not so much that you require wires for a flexdrive. It just makes it easier in some cases. If you're putting the driver inside an Aixiz then soldering directly to the diode is an advantage. You just have to be careful how you bend the legs and careful using your soldering iron.

bloompyle said:
Its a Rckstr micro v3
Click to expand...

Yes, you have an, 'IN', and an, 'OUT'. The out is usually marked with LD+ and - so you shouldn't mix them up. It's important to use a dummy test load with these boost drivers to correctly determine output. Use a fully charged or fresh battery as you don't want to set it to a current and then have a fresh battery bump up the output. It's also important to make sure you don't run them without a load as this can kill the driver. If you're running a PHR then a safe level is around 90mA. They can be pushed harder but you'll likely kill it quicker. When you get a host and potentially change the power source remember to reset the current as you cannot assume that the driver will output the same with a different power source.

Show us some pics when you're done!

Good luck,

M
:)
 
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bloompyle

bloompyle

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Morgan said:
It's not so much that you require wires for a flexdrive. It just makes it easier in some cases. If you're putting the driver inside an Aixiz then soldering directly to the diode is an advantage. You just have to be careful how you bend the legs and careful using your soldering iron.



Yes, you have an, 'IN', and an, 'OUT'. The out is usually marked with LD+ and - so you shouldn't mix them up. It's important to use a dummy test load with these boost drivers to correctly determine output. Use a fully charged or fresh battery as you don't want to set it to a current and then have a fresh battery bump up the output. It's also important to make sure you don't run them without a load as this can kill the driver. If you're running a PHR then a safe level is around 90mA. They can be pushed harder but you'll likely kill it quicker. When you get a host and potentially change the power source remember to reset the current as you cannot assume that the driver will output the same with a different power source.

Show us some pics when you're done!

Good luck,

M
:)
Click to expand...

Damn...I need a dummy load too? >.< And I was informed that 100ma was good for a PHR, I even requested that the merchant preset it to 100ma since I don't have the means to do so...
 
kevinmassey

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If the current is already preset you don't need a dummy load. You just have to solder the pins to the right places. Search for diode compilation. There you will find a phr diode pinout
 
P

proud2deviate

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With the case pin to the right, the positive pin will be on top. Hope it goes well. It's a special moment when you hook up the wires and see that beautiful violet light for the first time. Welcome to the obsession:)
 
Greenmechanic

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Don't forget to short out the "LD+ and-" before soldering on the LD.
100mA is fine for a PHR. I have one set at 135mA's that has >20 hours on it. (that's really pushing it though, it could die any day)
 
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proud2deviate

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I set my first PHR at 150ma, and it lasted a good long while (2 months frequent usage.) My current one is set at 140ma. I know it'll probably die sooner, but I have a spare.
 
bloompyle

bloompyle

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FRICKIN DAMNIT!!! All these last few weeks have been WASTED!! The driver won't even fit in the module! It's thin enough, but it's about 1/4" too tall!! WITHOUT WIRES! I can't even get the bare driver w/o wires in, I soldered the diode DIRECTLY (no extra wires, or pins) to the driver, there is no extra space I can cut down! All this time and effort, only to find that it isn't even possible to fit in a damn aixiz module! UGH! I'm so frikkin pissed off that I have just thrown this time and effort and money straight down the drain, and for what? A diode on a driver, un-protected, yeah, it 'lazes' but I have no housing for it! UGH!!!! ... I'll see what I can do, but I'm pretty pissed, I'll see if I can find a project box for it....
 
A

AznRice

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bloompyle said:
FRICKIN DAMNIT!!! All these last few weeks have been WASTED!! The driver won't even fit in the module! It's thin enough, but it's about 1/4" too tall!! WITHOUT WIRES! I can't even get the bare driver w/o wires in, I soldered the diode DIRECTLY (no extra wires, or pins) to the driver, there is no extra space I can cut down! All this time and effort, only to find that it isn't even possible to fit in a damn aixiz module! UGH! I'm so frikkin pissed off that I have just thrown this time and effort and money straight down the drain, and for what? A diode on a driver, un-protected, yeah, it 'lazes' but I have no housing for it! UGH!!!! ... I'll see what I can do, but I'm pretty pissed, I'll see if I can find a project box for it....
Click to expand...

you know you dont need the barrel *which is the long part*.... just press your diode into the housing *the top* and have your driver connected to your diode.
 
Kevlar

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What module are you using! Most use the aixiz. My Its a Rckstr micro v3 fits with room to spare.:thinking:
 
viperx1101

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Originally Posted by Morgan
It's not so much that you require wires for a flexdrive. It just makes it easier in some cases. If you're putting the driver inside an Aixiz then soldering directly to the diode is an advantage. You just have to be careful how you bend the legs and careful using your soldering iron.
Click to expand...

Morgan, you said soldering directly to the diode (in an Aixiz) from a flexdrive is an advantage versus wires. Could you explain why that is?

I am a newbie at this. I am trying to figure out the best ways to wire to a driver.
 
bloompyle

bloompyle

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Kevlar said:
What module are you using! Most use the aixiz. My Its a Rckstr micro v3 fits with room to spare.:thinking:
Click to expand...

Aixiz, I will try to post pics tonight, but I have it directly on the driver, and I can't screw on the barrel, I can get it touching my housing, I just can't start screwing it into the barrel because the driver starts touching the back of the barrel at that time.
 
HIMNL9

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^ you can open totally the end of the aixiz barrell, and let a little part of the driver come out ..... ;)
 
chipdouglas

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viper there is only an advantage in his particular builds. lets say you have an unconventional style host and need to put the driver away from the LD and closer to the switch. then mounting it near the switch would be an advantage. just be sure to use tin coated wires. i also use thinner and more flexible wire. and when you solder, to avoid over heating things. pre-solder the wirer tips.

michael
 
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