PHR-803T for about $20

Jules · Jun 4, 2008

Here is final extract

john_lawson · Jun 4, 2008

thats the puppy warning after you make that one work you will do at least two more in the next couple weeks lol

Jules · Jun 4, 2008

I already have it pressed into the Axis module.... The hardest part was desoldering the initial flexible pcb trace thingie... My wife caught me in the middle of disassembly she was mildly amused

styropyro · Jun 4, 2008

Payday is in a couple of days for me so I'll pick up probably 3-5 depending on what mood I'm in

Is it just me or do you guys find it hilarious that we buy perfectly functioning media drives and rip them apart for a little component? When new types of optical data storage devices are released I think most of us here get more exited for the laser diodes inside instead on the capability of the new technology ;D

daguin · Jun 4, 2008

styropyro said:
Payday is in a couple of days for me so I'll pick up probably 3-5 depending on what mood I'm in

Is it just me or do you guys find it hilarious that we buy perfectly functioning media drives and rip them apart for a little component? When new types of optical data storage devices are released I think most of us here get more exited for the laser diodes inside instead on the capability of the new technology ;D

When I throw away the Toshiba drives they look like they just came off the assembly line. If you look closely, you can see that three of the four exterior screws are missing, but beyond that they could probably be returned as not working for a full refund

Now once the refurbisher opened the case, he/she would know what happened, although I doubt that they would know "WHY???" ;D

Peace,
dave

Jules · Jun 4, 2008

Mine went into the trash, I saved the motor that spins the DVD to mount a mirror too. Does anyone know if that is a DC motor or a steper motor?

john_lawson · Jun 4, 2008

Stop theres some nice little optics in there my three boys fight over the after sled evey time i extract the blue diode ;D

rubberband · Jun 4, 2008

hey how did you go about taking the pcb off of the back of the diode. i tryed it on the red and failed miserably. i am waiting for my aixiz modules from dx before i can finish so i have some time i just want to do it right.

any help would be awesome
Thanks,
Mitch

disma · Jun 4, 2008

dont forget about the awesome little neodymium magnets.

Max

Maelstrom · Jun 4, 2008

rubberband said:
hey how did you go about taking the pcb off of the back of the diode. i tryed it on the red and failed miserably. i am waiting for my aixiz modules from dx before i can finish so i have some time i just want to do it right.

any help would be awesome
Thanks,
Mitch

You have to unsolder it.... Try looking at this guide for a red diode. Should be about the same process, but dont quote me on it

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1181635652

Jules · Jun 5, 2008

Here is what I did. See the pdf for details. I used solder wick and carefully pulled the pcb stuff away. It wasn't elegant and I hope I didn't damage it. A good magnifier is in order here!

daguin · Jun 5, 2008

Jules said:
Here is what I did. See the pdf for details. I used solder wick and carefully pulled the pcb stuff away. It wasn't elegant and I hope I didn't damage it. A good magnifier is in order here!

There's a faster way to get the diode out. I don't even take the sled out of the unit.

remove the screws and open the unit

remove the flat ribbon

lift the PCB over to the side (I cut the red and black wire to make this easier)

At this point the sled is exposed

Use needle nose pliers to pull back the silver "protector" band away from the diodes

Scrap off the glue from around the blu-ray diode with a small screwdriver

Place that small screwdriver between the diode heatsink and the chrome "cover"

pop the diode loose

cut the ribbon

I then put the player back together using only one screw on the case (snap the PCB back in place, place the case cover back on, replace one screw). It is much easier to work with this way. No small parts to keep track of, no pile of pieces to carry. Just a neat rectangular block to carry away. This is especially good if you are doing more than one at a time.

Of course you also don't get all the cool lenses and stuff from the sled, I don't care about that stuff.

Peace,
dave

heruursciences · Jun 5, 2008

The same technique i use on PS-3 diodes works on these, leave a bit of ribbon connector on the back, stick the diode block in a vice, attach a bit of tape to the ribbon connector, glob the iron and touch to all three pins till melted and yank. As far as the small pcb on the higher powered diode under the ribbon connector- just leave it it doesn't hurt anything, in fact it helps you by preventing shorting when soldering it, as a bonus you can even bridge the spot on the top and ESD/ charged cap proof it till you solder into your circuit, then de-bridge with some wick when safely in place

Kenom · Jun 5, 2008

You will however want to remove all the pieces if your going to press it into my barrels. ANYTHING left on the diode can make it seat offsides a small amount with as tight as my barrels press fit. Just a heads up to those wanting to insert these into my barrels. ;D

GooeyGus · Jun 5, 2008

The trick to getting the ribbon and PCB off is to add more solder!! add a big blob until there is enough solder that all three pins are immersed in it. Then all you have to do is heat the blob up, and it melts the solder around all three pins. Then just simply lift while keeping heat applied. If only the first layer comes off, then just do the same thing

Kenom timed me a few nights ago and I got all the stuff off, from start to finish, in around 56 seconds. Its not too hard it just takes practice and the right technique.

Jules · Jun 5, 2008

Well there are many methods. If this one works (Or doesn't lol) I'm getting another one and will try the "straight to the sled" method. I did encounter a little glue I think on the board.

This forum Rocks!

PHR-803T for about $20

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