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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

need help for building one of the most advanced portable laser pen

Joined
May 7, 2016
Messages
139
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Edit, the laser is completely done now, pictures will be added today. Thanks everyone for assistance!

I got a 405nm laser diode driver (0/250mW) battery BMS (management circuit) and a safety switch soldered on a laser diode board. To turn the laser on, there is an on/off button on the rear of my host, if you push it, nothing happens due to the security switch I designed and build. Its a shock switch. To turn it on, you have to tap it against your leg vertically. This is here to trigger the BMS on. It was a problem but I got it fixed by looking at the G2JF datasheet. However, very complicated. But I got it done.

This circuit took me 5 days to design and make. I even had to put a reverse polarity protection circuit in there since the bms isn't protected against it and I already roasted 5 of them. Those where prototype circuits, this one is completed and fixed against any electrical failures
.
I also bought a 3 element glass lens for 405nm, I took it apart to make it watertight. It was hard as the lenses had to be absolutely clean, but I got it done. Took me 1 complete day.

I also ordered a 5mW red laser module as it was cheap and it has the aixiz housing. Still has to come

and I ordered a SLD3232VF Sony 405nm 50mW 70mA diode. My driver output is 6 volts, this diode is rated for 5.5 volts. This shouldn't be a problem when the current is lower then 70mA right?
The diode still has to come

And I don't have a test load or an ammeter. So next question, can I set the laser driver to its lowest output power, connecting the laser diode and SLOWLY turning the pot when I get around 20mW? I can compare it with an true 20mW 405nM pointer. And the driver has an ceramic capacitor, do I have to discharge that? And how?

This is a very complicated laser pen build. Its even gonna be watertight as this host is watertight and my lens too.resistand to drops and very stormy weathers. I never saw anything like this so small. 11mmx14mm. Host size is 12mm (drilled with an lathe by me for the laser module, and 10mm for the ICR10440 battery. Security switch so no one can operate it unless they know how to turn it on. Intergrated battery protection cicruit for shorts, over current draw and voltage drop (2.20v)
And I made a ultra small connector, making this thing easy to repair. If the diode breaks, all I have to do is unscrew the laser diode thing where it is pressed in from the main body, slam it out, soldering the wires, connect it in the socket en its working. It will cost you 5 min.
All of this in this small package. It took me some good days to engineer and design the infrastructure.




edit:
I can make more pictures if needed!!!!!! Just ask :)
 

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Joined
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Fun little project you got going on here, and nice job on designing a custom circuit.

so the questions:
1, am I able to set the power, when the driver is set on its lowest, by slowly turning the pot untill it reaches its max?

2, I've heard a lot about discharging the capacitors on the laser driver before connecting the diode. Do I have to short LD+ and LD- together?

3, I ordered an 5mW red laser module which has almost the same housing as aixiz, but are those lens threads M9 P0.5?

4, what do you think of this build? With all those features? I'm 16 and designed it myself.

5, I will go on vacation this year, so if you are interested in this or very similar laser host, contact me as I might be able to get some more. I got this hosts on august 2014 when I was on vacation in kurdistan, its fully aluminum. Very strong and I can make them watertight. Its laying around for nearly 2 years as a simple flashlight and it collected a good amount of dust untill 5 weeks ago.

1: I suppose you could try that, but you should take note of a few things: Flicker, heat, suddenly dim, etc... It all really boils down to how far you push it, you can't really be sure unless you fry the thing. One thing though, if you're turning it higher and the LD suddenly dims, be careful because you'd be on the verge of killing it or already killed it - don't go to high, and try to play it safe... But really, you should get a test load, a lot easier IMO.

2: Yes, this is done to avoid any sudden current spikes to the diode. But, DO NOT short it when it's connected to power.

3: Most modules use the same lens threads, all no-name cheap Chinese modules I've got use the same standard lens thread, but no guarantees.

4: I like fun projects like this, nice job on the design and I think you should soon try upgrading to higher power builds and start making more hosts. The one in the images you posted looks interesting.
 
Joined
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Fun little project you got going on here, and nice job on designing a custom circuit.



1: I suppose you could try that, but you should take note of a few things: Flicker, heat, suddenly dim, etc... It all really boils down to how far you push it, you can't really be sure unless you fry the thing. One thing though, if you're turning it higher and the LD suddenly dims, be careful because you'd be on the verge of killing it or already killed it - don't go to high, and try to play it safe... But really, you should get a test load, a lot easier IMO.

2: Yes, this is done to avoid any sudden current spikes to the diode. But, DO NOT short it when it's connected to power.

3: Most modules use the same lens threads, all no-name cheap Chinese modules I've got use the same standard lens thread, but no guarantees.

4: I like fun projects like this, nice job on the design and I think you should soon try upgrading to higher power builds and start making more hosts. The one in the images you posted looks interesting.

thanks, I will turn the pot wery slowly and I will try tu underpower it. Since this pot isn't sensitive, that should be possible. I already toasted 3 ps3 bluray diodes just for practicing, and these diodes ran for an hour on a 11A 6V battery (not 11 amps). 11A is the size.

I received the module and my watertight lens fits. It looks ***y in the host. Unbelievable

I took nome better pictures of the board circuit I made from an old broken RC helicopter battery protection circuit and the driver + shock trigger switch which was a pain in the ass to build, it took me a couple hours to make a solution. In this case, the switch is shorting pin4 from the iC (pin4= DP test pin for switch off latency measurment) and pin5 (pin5= VCC in). When the battery is applied, it doesn't turn on as this IC has a protection against already connected load ( in this case the laser driver and the laser), prefenting it to turn on. But this switch basically shorts them, by doing that, it puts the BMS in the measurment mode for a micro second, and when it returns to normal mode, it bypasses the already connected load protection without losing 2.20v power cutoff protection. All tested. And its a safety feature so no one will roast their eyes accidentaly when ooerating it the right way unless they point it at their eyes on purpose.

its a tight fit, and the circuit looks really messy because its so small for what it actually does. But it all fits :). Now, I need to wait for the SLD3232VF diode. I can't wait but it will definitely take 2 weeks. But 80% is done now!

By the way I builed a high power dvd burner laser back in 2013, I don't know where it is now but I think its somewhere behind my TV desk.

here is the video on my channel. https://youtu.be/m_AdKKnV_Og

by the way, don't look at the titel, it was used to get views but I failed LOL. I got a lot of views on my first green laser video. Don't know how. But this was my first build 2 years ago when I was stupidity dumb to almost roast my eyes. I got luck with 0% damage, but I had 2 flickering blind spots for 2 years and is gone now. I had luck.
 

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Joined
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Messages
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Some better pictures of the design, and the watertight 3 element lens. I can make a tutorial on how to make it watertight. And I used a iPhone 4 camera lens as double isolator to prevent condensation inside the 3 element lens.
 

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Pman

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Interesting that you built it needing a "tap" to turn on (at least from what I'm understanding) as diodes can be sensitive to shock. I'm assuming it only needs a very slight tap to latch on.
Not sure why you would choose a 3-element as the 405nm I'm familiar with don't need one as their divergence is already great.
I don't know how you are going to set the output by trying to compare it to anothers output. Unless it is the same diode you could be way off especially if the divergence is different. You really do need to either make or buy a test load.
All that being said you really put a lot of time and effort into this build and I applaud you.
 
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Interesting that you built it needing a "tap" to turn on (at least from what I'm understanding) as diodes can be sensitive to shock.

Yep, you can say that again. I've noticed this especially with my silver series laser from sanwu, simply just putting it down on a hard durface will reboot the laser.
 
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Interesting that you built it needing a "tap" to turn on (at least from what I'm understanding) as diodes can be sensitive to shock. I'm assuming it only needs a very slight tap to latch on.
Not sure why you would choose a 3-element as the 405nm I'm familiar with don't need one as their divergence is already great.
I don't know how you are going to set the output by trying to compare it to anothers output. Unless it is the same diode you could be way off especially if the divergence is different. You really do need to either make or buy a test load.
All that being said you really put a lot of time and effort into this build and I applaud you.

Yes, its a slight tap. I tested some dead diodes and even a good one from a ps3 sled. I literally threw it 2 times out my window in an old aixiz module, it still worked, untill I twisted the pin. So its not a pain. And the tap is very slight but very reliable. I used the switch used in the KEM-400AAA blu ray drive. The switch is an detection sensor for the sled. So when the console is turned off, the micro controller knows when the sled is parked. By tapping it, it bridges VCC to DP (test pin). Since the BMS (battery management system) did not turn on when battery is connected while it has load (the laser diode and driver), i had to solve this problem. So i made a feature from a problem. And the nice thing is, as far as i know, the SLD3232VF does not have a diode window so it should be more resistant against drops. But the one I threw at the ground for testing had a window. And its still tightly in place. Diode is still good but the pins are crushed. This circuit costed me some good time to design. It was a pain in the ass but it was fun :)

The reason why i choose a 3 element lens, was only to get it watertight. As acrylic was hard and its hard to clean. It scratches easely. I was able to get the 3 element lens watertight and shock resistant as the bottom lens is on a soft piece of tape.

Thanks for your comment:) but the reason why I can't use a test load is, i don't have an ammeter. I will buy one but this diode was $2 free shipping so i hope it will be good. The driver is currently set on its lowest output power.


Edit: i will try to underpower this laser diode. I will try to reach something close to 25mW. This is my second laser build since late 2013, where i used a red laser diode from a old dvd burner and a green dpss 532nm 5mW pump laser driver. I got a video of that. Cool thing but it wasn't nearly as qualitative as this one. Noway near as the module kept shorting with the case (problems with case positive diodes.

Btw, i got another question. Are case positive diodes sensitive against ESD when inside a module and/or host? So if i zap the laser host, does that destroy the LD? I couldn't find any info about that.

Thanks :D
 
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Hello, i added some more question. Every question with "(edit)" still needs to be answered. In this case, question 6,7,8 and 9. Those are the key questions. If anyone can help me with this (especially with finding an smaller battery in length but not in width) that would be awesome. I'm searching for 300mm x 10mm lithium ion rechargeable batteries, or smaller in length. So if anyone can help me with that as i don't know what to search for. Thanks!
 
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(Edit): 6, aixiz housing has 2 parts. The part where you actually press your diode in and where your lens is screwed in, and the botom part, the metal tube which is screwed under the part where the diode is pressed in. You can fit your laser driver in there. But i have a question. This part is screwed on to the diode part. Due to grounding issues and interference with ground on the BMS, i want to isolate the thread from those 2 parts so they are no longer electrically connected together but still attached to each other. For example, the tube part which comes with almost all aixiz housing is input ground, if it touches the diode and lens part, it will bridge the BMS so it doesn't cut the power at 2.20V. I already got it done by isolating the thread with a plastic bag and it works like a charm and it also seals it, but it would be great if someone knows a better idea.


So all in one, how can i isolate an screw thread so it doesn't electrically conduct electricity? In this case, the aixiz housing.

Just remove the rear part of the AixiZ module and don't use it, unless it's a very powerful diode and you need it to help with the heat sinking you don't need it, I removed it with my M140 build because it didn't fit. Plenty of people with a build in a small host discard the rear part of the module.

(Edit) 7, are single mode 405nm laser diodes case neutral? I really hope this is true as this can interfere with my BMS circuit. The M-140 and most 445nm laser diodes seem to have the case pin as neutral. My old kes-400A diode is multimode and it turned on when the case is connected to ground. The laser diode i will use is SLD3232VF. If this one breaks, i need to find a PHR-803T sled.

Yes they are case neutral, some red diodes are case negative, and IR diodes and DPSS modules using an IR pump diode are case positive.


(Edit) 8, the SLD3232VF diode is rated for 5.5V. I got a driver which outputs 6v. Only .5 volts higher. Will this being an issue for the diode?

This question makes no sense at all, laser drivers are constant current, not constant voltage, the driver can adjust the voltage as needed to maintain the correct current.

(Edit) 9, i got a 10440 lithium battery, which is 450x10mm. I would love to see a rechargeable battery at this size: 300mmx10mm. Or even smaller in length but not in width. So i can press the whole module inside the host. If someone knows what battery that is, i would be highly appreciated. I already tried to search but i can't find it as i don't know what to search for.

A 10440 is 10mm in diameter and 44mm long.

Alan
 
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Just remove the rear part of the AixiZ module and don't use it, unless it's a very powerful diode and you need it to help with the heat sinking you don't need it, I removed it with my M140 build because it didn't fit. Plenty of people with a build in a small host discard the rear part of the module.



Yes they are case neutral, some red diodes are case negative, and IR diodes and DPSS modules using an IR pump diode are case positive.



This question makes no sense at all, laser drivers are constant current, not constant voltage, the driver can adjust the voltage as needed to maintain the correct current.



A 10440 is 10mm in diameter and 44mm long.

Alan

Thanks for your answer, the problem is, that i can't leave the rear part out. This part is basically the infrastructure of the module and it packs the driver in one. I probably will gain 3mm by leaving it out, but it would be less qualitative and fragile as the driver is loose

And the rear part is essential for making contact with ground, as this can't be done without, definitely not if a diode is case negative

The rear part also holds the part of the aixiz module diode holder on, and i can wrap some good 3m 300lse adhesive around it with an ground clip so its watertight and won't come out unless needed.

I'm happy to hear that the 405nm laser diode is case neutral, however my PS3 405nm laser diode wasn't. Is this because it was multimode? One had 5 pins and the other had 3, both where case negative.

By the way, i want to know if there is something similar to 10440 but smaller in length? Not in width, just in length. Like a 30mm x 10mm. Otherwise i will machine a aluminum part making the upper part up so the whole module is nice and covered. And the host will be an tiny cm bigger bat thats not a prop as it already is small.

I was curious about the driver btw, better safe then roasting some good diodes and wasting time. It was tested without load btw, just directly to the volt meter. Is it bad? I heard some comments that powering an boost driver kills it or makes it unreliable. This is a very small laser driver rated for 250mW max and 0mW min.

Thanks anyways!
 
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I'm happy to hear that the 405nm laser diode is case neutral, however my PS3 405nm laser diode wasn't. Is this because it was multimode? One had 5 pins and the other had 3, both where case negative.

I was curious about the driver btw, better safe then roasting some good diodes and wasting time. It was tested without load btw, just directly to the volt meter. Is it bad? I heard some comments that powering an boost driver kills it or makes it unreliable. This is a very small laser driver rated for 250mW max and 0mW min.

I would like to know what 405nm diode is case negative, at the moment I am not believing this.

You can not test a driver with just a DMM unless it is a linear driver, you must use a test load or you will likely damage the driver. Also why do you say volt meter? You would be testing for current not for voltage.

Alan
 
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I would like to know what 405nm diode is case negative, at the moment I am not believing this.

You can not test a driver with just a DMM unless it is a linear driver, you must use a test load or you will likely damage the driver. Also why do you say volt meter? You would be testing for current not for voltage.

Alan

http://www.lillyelectronics.com/download/ICPDF-SLD3232VF-GD.PDF

This is the datasheet of the diode i will be using. Pin 1 in LD anode, pin 2 is PD anode which I don't use. Pin 3 is common, and pin 3 is case. Its 405nm.

Yea, it was a stupid move to test it on a DMM. I just wanted to know if the Ebay seller didn't scam me. But i don't think i damaged it in this case. If i do, that wouldn't be fun of course. Is there a way to see if it is damaged?

Thanks!

And as for the 405nm ps3 diode, the 5 pin one had case negative, and the 3 pin too. I tested them. The sld3232vf has the same thing. It has a photodiode inside it, not sure if this is a benefit as i wouldn't be using it unless i can hook it up somehow.
 
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I made the prototype. Its watertight at the moment, 20mW red solid, I mean it feels like a massive heavy stick. Its hard and feels unbeatable good. This is my second laser I've build. Its going to be violet and better but I'm still waiting for the parts so I tought why not make one if I can.

here are some photo's of it compared to some random stuff
 

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Pman

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As long as you are happy building your specific way do whatever you want. To the outsider it looks like you are making things more complicated than it needs to be. It can be a lot of fun figuring things out on your own so it's nice that you are sharing and getting into it.
 
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As long as you are happy building your specific way do whatever you want. To the outsider it looks like you are making things more complicated than it needs to be. It can be a lot of fun figuring things out on your own so it's nice that you are sharing and getting into it.

Thanks! Trying new things is always great :D
 
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If you have 18mm length by 10mm width you could use a 10180 batt there only 70mAh each but they are small enough to fit in the back of an aixes module.
 

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