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Laser problems.

crazydaze

crazydaze

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OK i have a small problem, just received this through the post:
405nm 300mW Blue-ray Laser Diode 6x Diode Sled | eBay
After setting the driver 2pcs adjustable current laser diode driver 80-500mA w/TTL | eBay to ~250mA and connecting all the wires together I switch on my laser, and for the 30 seconds its on for (I had a couple of goes before it went) everything is fine, then it flickers and goes out.
Now it wont come on not even as an LED, I have tried new batteries and still nothing.
There is voltage coming out of the driver @ 7.5 volts from 2x protected lithiums (yes they need charging) but I calibrated it with 2x unprotetected fully charged li-ions.
Back to yelling at a wall for 5 mins. :gun:
 





billg519

billg519

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This sounds like your particular 6x diode may not have liked 250mA. All you can do is try 2 fully charged batteries, in case 7.5V is not quite enough for your regulator, which is linear, and has possibly 1.5V requirement over and above the diode Vf. The flicker you saw was either the regulator dropping out from low voltage, or the diode burning out.
 
crazydaze

crazydaze

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As far as I am concerned it was the diode, the install I was well impressed with (myself lol) with no artifacts from handling etc appearing on the unfocused spot, then it flickered, went wavy, then went out
I have tried 8.2v from 2x 18650s (direct lol) and not even a flicker, I have emailed them about it, but if they claim it to be my fault I willl name and shame them for selling under powered diodes.
Still waiting on a BDR from china tho :thanks:
 
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ryansoh3

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Do you mind taking a picture of your setup?

Others have had problems like these and some things that were being overlooked were pointed out by LPF members.

Cheers! :beer:
 
crazydaze

crazydaze

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It was my goldenvirginia host that has some photos in my old posts
http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/my-first-blu-lazer-75956.html
basically I hooked the TTL +ve and power +ve together (input), negative controlled through a switch and the host body was used for the negative (to diode). I used the case pin connected to the -ve to complete the circuit. Sorry I cant take a photo now, I raged it and removed the driver and focus host before hoisting the tin in the bin, i was not amused lol.
But like i said 2x 18650s in series w/o a driver never even make a flicker, which i am kinda glad of because if it had of flickered it would have been me who killed it with the test lol. I think they are passing off 150~ as 300 tbh with you, or maybe very low quality diodes, u either get a 300+mW monster or a quick death.
 
hakzaw1

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If you get a free replacement diode or driver and you do not change something about what all you did- chances are the mistake was made by you and your results will be the same.


You wont get a third 'bite' from the apple.


WE were not there to see if you used ESD precautions- if you used s test (dummy) load or if you did or didn't short all your caps and avoided reverse polarity -did you overheat anything while trying to solder- did you fail to have your diode ina HEATSINK before soldering- is your soldering iron correctly set for the right amount of heat- is your iron grounded- it can have a static charge too. One should NEVER power any diode directly from ANY battery(s)


I would take a guess and say...

that 90% of failures were not made by the diode or driver makers- but by the enduser.
maybe more..

First time builders need to use the least expensive diodes( like a PHR) and drivers. That way when you kill, it will not be so painful.


This is why VERY FEW sellers will give free replacment of diodes, sleds or drivers. EVER.


pics of what you did will help us to help you

hak
 
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DTR

DTR

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crazydaze said:
There is voltage coming out of the driver @ 7.5 volts
Click to expand...

That is the voltage out or the voltage in. The voltage out should be the forward voltage of the load unless there is no load. Can you take a picture of the driver's current being set on your test load.?
 
crazydaze

crazydaze

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hakzaw1 said:
If you get a free replacement diode or driver and you do not change something about what all you did- chances are the mistake was made by you and your results will be the same.


You wont get a third 'bite' from the apple. -- Agreed, but if the diodes are really only 150mW it will still pop on my setup, although it and i feature in another thread by someone else who claims a stable 300.


WE were not there to see if you used ESD precautions- if you used s test (dummy) load or if you did or didn't short all your caps and avoided reverse polarity -did you overheat anything while trying to solder- did you fail to have your diode ina HEATSINK before soldering- is your soldering iron correctly set for the right amount of heat- is your iron grounded- it can have a static charge too. One should NEVER power any diode directly from ANY battery(s) --- such is life, I handle electronic components carefully, years of PC repairs have helped with that. I tin my wires, apply a little flux on the pin then heat the wire for a second or two and it sticks lol. And yes I know not to direct power from a battery, like I said it was the final test yo truly see if it was not just a driver/circuit mess up.


I would take a guess and say...

that 90% of failures were not made by the diode or driver makers- but by the enduser.
maybe more..

First time builders need to use the least expensive diodes( like a PHR) and drivers. That way when you kill, it will not be so painful. --- I did a PHR, both diodes lol (first for practice on the red, to death of course!)


This is why VERY FEW sellers will give free replacment of diodes, sleds or drivers. EVER.


pics of what you did will help us to help you,
--- sorry none taken, and my rage destroyed my own evidence :eek:

hak
Click to expand...

I get why sellers will not offer a replacement, but I truly believe all I had was a crap diode, believe me when I say I have a habit of buying broken things.
Thanks for the time, I will put some pics of a mock up of the circuit, still have the diode.
 
M

makeitnew

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crazydaze said:
I get why sellers will not offer a replacement, but I truly believe all I had was a crap diode, believe me when I say I have a habit of buying broken things.
Thanks for the time, I will put some pics of a mock up of the circuit, still have the diode.
Click to expand...

are you electrically grounded when you mess with your parts? It probably goes without saying that you do this but I thought I might recommend it :yh:
 
crazydaze

crazydaze

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makeitnew said:
are you electrically grounded when you mess with your parts? It probably goes without saying that you do this but I thought I might recommend it :yh:
Click to expand...

U know what pisses me off.. ES sensitive items that come in a figging plastic bag, not antistatic just regular old zip bags, and yes it did.
 
AnthoT

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I think those diodes need max 170mA...

Not completely sure though...
 
crazydaze

crazydaze

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AnthoT said:
I think those diodes need max 170mA...

Not completely sure though...
Click to expand...

Check the listing, power 300mW, curent 320mA.
Seriously I was being conservative with the power and triple/quad checked all of my readings (test circuit) before the diode even seen the host.
Its in Ebays hands now and I will report on the progress, although if anyone has the funds to buy a few and they really are just crap at QC, 300mW for under $20 is very good (u may find that upwards of 10% are failures, idk though).


Edit: Seller has agreed to reship item, should I just set this at 150 and accept its not gonna be great or go for 300 again and have it pop on me?? O and the bad equalled by the good, I got this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280892574270?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 green laser <5mW, idk if its 5mW tbf its v bright, thinking about pulling the diode out of the module and replacing with a 300mW IR 808nm, which gets me green right.. maybe out of focus, but still!

Ok sorry about quality phone camera (and circuit quality, it is a mock up lol)..
The white/black combo is the -ve from battery (the switch was in between), the red input is split to power the TTL +ve and input.
To the LD: red with blue plug is +ve, black plug -ve. The -ve ran through the host to case pin/negative combo from the driver.
2012-08-06_1906011-1.jpg



2012-08-06_1906101.jpg


I will be doing a video build for the next I think, just so people can comment on my (lack of) skill lol!
Using this host:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170884735914?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
I wanna make it sexy ^^

Final edit: (Ebay message from seller)
Thanks for your kind reply.

However, it is really hard to make sure the condition of the replacement as it is hard to control what happen during shipping.

For this situation, I guess the most safe way is refund you. But if you want us resend it, please let me know and we will resend it soon.

Best regards

Agatha

So idk how good the diodes are, but I am getting a refund.
 
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crazydaze

crazydaze

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After this fiasco I am going to buy a laser diode checker to ENSURE no dead on arrivals! If you read this, and know a noob, pass it on. You may save another laser based future!
 
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