First dead Blu-Ray?

nosebleedXD said:

so could i just get a cheapy green laser and pot mod it

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In theory yes you could, but you will most likely fry it in 10 seconds anyhow. I would never try to pot mod a cheap laser unless you truely want to lose it.

And I think what he was saying about your green laser is... if you seen smoke then there's a chance you just fried the driver....as he said. Meaning you can try to swap the one you fried with a new driver. If your pump is not fried then your laser should work like new again. If it does work then you could set your laser back to 50mw assuming you have a lpm

hey nosebleed.... i know you know how to build now... so if you did fry your driver on your greenie just get lava drive. and if your laser won't turn on still, then who cares because you have a lava drive and then you can just get a 6x for really cheap =)

michael

Pot modding would just 'depend'. Your not going to get 100mw out of a 5mw pointer. However REAL 50mw modules and higher probably use the exact same crystal sizes and coatings. The difference in these will be driver current and probably pump diodes as well. I think it would just depend on the manufacturer though.

It still boils down to the fact that if you want a reliable high power laser though, you go ahead and buy an actual high power laser, and not a cheap low power one and try to modify it unless your fine with it possibly having a lifespan measured in seconds.

'You get what you pay for' still very much applies to lasers, at least on the low end of the spectrum anyway.. Cheap lasers are going to be just that.

lol forget w.e i just said, im not really interested in green DIY i was just curious about some stuff =]

but yeah i didnt even build my phr yet =[

hope the diodes comes this week

but also, does 6x sleds come with a red laser diode? perhaps i could buy a 6x sled for my next project and also build a red laser =]

iknitsteel said:

I have had a GGW build for a long time I used it as my normal blu ray laser and yesterday I was using it and burning things and I clicked on and no laser comes out!!!!!?!?!?!! Just a faint blu ray light that looks more like a circle with the middle missing and no dot. The current was set a 195mA and I always used a short duty cycle. I charged the battery and tried that and the same thing looks to me like I got a LED is this one way that a laser can die just go all LED one day? this has never happed to me just wondering if I cant save it some how

Thanks,
Justin

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blu-ray diodes arent as resistant to turning on as other diodes, therefore they are better with drivers that have a soft-on option or some sort of modulation that slowly increases the current. i have lost one like this too, just suddenly not turning on one day

hugo999999 said:

blu-ray diodes arent as resistant to turning on as other diodes, therefore they are better with drivers that have a soft-on option or some sort of modulation that slowly increases the current. i have lost one like this too, just suddenly not turning on one day

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Thanks for the info but all I have room for I think is a flex drive its a very tight build I have seen some drivers with a soft on and I have heard TTL modulation all over the place but I dont really know what it does.. I think im going to look at the prices of a GGW and get another one :wave:

Justin

405 still rocks heh. I actually got both some PHR's and some 445's from scopeguy20 the other day, and to be honest, i've been playing with the 405's a lot more than the 445.

And TTL is Transistor Transitor Logic. It's a form of modulation that basically just has two states. High and low. Or in our case on and off. It's usually driven by a circuit that has PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) output. In a laser this means that brightness is controlled by just turning the laser on and off really fast. The width of the pulses determines the apparent brightness, but the power going to the laser itself is the exact same as if it was fully on.

Thank for the info so basically TTL is a way to change the brightness of the laser in simple terms? I think if I understand you correctly

And I just build two PHR pens I like the 405 Along with my new 445 lol but Im definitely buying another GGW when I get the money, Cant retire the Blue Ray!!!!

Justin

Well. You can control the 'apparent' brightness using TTL. TTL only supports two states. On and off. You get brightness control by basically turning the laser on and off REALLY fast. This is called pulse width modulation. When the pulse rate is fast enough, your eye 'averages' this to look like CW at a lower brightness. The shorter the pulse width, (meaning the less time the laser is actually on in the cycle) the dimmer it appears to be.. However, each pulse is still at the full power of the laser.

If you want true brightness control, that involves a driver that supports analog modulation. I don't know of any of those available in a small form factor though.