bryce007
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Hey thanks. And thanks for all your help answering my questions on the other thread.
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Finished PHR in chrome leadlight
- Thread starter bryce007
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Hey thanks. And thanks for all your help answering my questions on the other thread.
matrixcs
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bryce let me know if you are selling this pen of yours...
bryce007
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I'll PM you about it.
mfo
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Man, how the HELL did you build this? I'm trying the same thing and it's impossible to get the rkcstr driver in there...=( Already effed up one diode and both my drivers are clogged...fail....='( lol. Im gonna get a lava drive.
bryce007
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The hardest part for me was mounting that switch on some PCB. You having trouble mounting the driver? My driver is soldered directly to the diode, with a wire from the switch to the positive input on the driver.
mfo
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I tried soldering the driver right to the diode too. Did you solder it right to the diode pins, or did you use wire? I think my mistake was using wire. Perhaps I should have tried bending the diode pins 90 degrees and soldering them right into the driver board, but I know those pins are fragile. If you used wire, what kind did you use? As of right now it looks like I am out a diode and two driver boards...I don't want to screw up my last diode, and the driver board holes are clogged where I am supposed to solder in the diode outputs.
bryce007
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Yea my driver is soldered directly to the pins of the diode. Why would you bend the pins? That's not a good idea. You say you're out two driver boards? Why do you say that? By "clogged", do you mean that there is excess solder on the contacts? You can always pickup a de-soldering iron from radioshack for like $11 I think.
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To unsolder holes in drivers or any PCB, heat the solder with an iron, & while the solder is melted, stick a toothpick in the hole till the solder re-solidifies. Any questions, PM me. rob
mfo
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Well, if you solder the driver to the pins, it would make an L shape so to speak, thus making it impossible to put back inside of the aixiz module. How did you solder it to the pins then?
P.S. I did pick up a solder sucker, but they are being stubborn for some reason.
Good idea, will definitely give that a shot later when my stress level returns to normal lol.
mfo
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So, you soldered the pins to the top of the drivers board so to speak? Like on top of the holes instead of through them?
mfo
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Yes
That seems ridiculously difficult, but I will give that a shot later. Any tips you can offer?
mfo
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I guess that's what my problem is, I need to swallow my pride and ask for help lol. Will ask my girl to help out later on when I'm in the mood to give it a go again. With your method, I won't even need to unclog the holes. How did you connect the negative input to the case though? I was thinking of drilling a little hole in the module , wiring it and then throwing some solder in there somehow. I'm going case negative.
P.S. You said next time you'd use the driver by Dr. Lave. What kind of batteries would you use, since it has a max input of like 5.5V? I was thinking two standard re-chargable AAA batteries (1.2V each) but 405nM use 4.5V or something? I thought it was the mA we were looking to achieve, not the voltage.
bryce007
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I just want to clarify, I didn't mean get someone else to help you, I meant buy some helping hands:
Kronus™ Helping Hands - RadioShack.com
I went in to the store the other day and they were like $10.
Just solder the case pin of the PHR to the negative pin.
I haven't decided which driver to use for a feature leadlight build. The flexdrive is really nice, but kinda expensive. The flexdrive is able to boost your input voltage to the voltage that the diode needs, and at a constant current that you set. I was thinking about trying out o-like's blu-ray driver in other builds, but not for leadlights, because it needs over 3v input.
