Empty DX lasers as hosts...

Alright, I'm about to buy some hosts for my bluray lasers...
Let's review, so , if anybody has suggestions, helpful advices etc. please do so

DX 30 <- hosts from these are going to be used
PHR 803T diode ~100mA (MODWERX RULEZ!)
AixiZ with stock lens (yea' I know, suckz but simply cannot afford 15$ lens)

Now, this is how I intent to do it:
Aixiz module fits inside a host very nicely (as repored from ReNNo, from who i will be getting those)
Now, a little thermal paste would be in order:
DealExtreme: $3.25 Professional Thermal Heat-Sink Compound with Injection Tube - 1.0g (10-Pack)
This seems ok... Just to keep module safe and cool

Now for the issue: PHR diode, it unused pin.. What exactly is used for?
ndrew said it is perfectly ok if i connect the unused pin with the + pin of the diode, to make the whole module case positive. Spares connections on driver PCB i will be making. Small SMD cap will be soldered directly onto diode's pins. Oh yeah, question: is thermo paste electricaly conductive?
If not then i will have to figure out a way to connect the module to the host body itself...
Anyway, + and unused pin connected together, whole thing case positive. Now, I do not intend to place PCB inside AixiZ module, because i need a button on it. Now, is there enough room for both whole module and a PCB? I think yes, cuz green modules are much larger, and have PCB soldered onto diode. Now... the batteries:
2x 10440. That would be the main problem...
Are 10440's able to kick 100 mA?
The driver is DDL, except not with 317 but with 1117 , here:
LM1117 Low Dropout Adjustable Voltage Regulator 10Pcs on eBay.ca (item 180384779584 end time 28-Oct-09 18:55:32 EDT)
Enough voltage, yes, but current?

So, anybody having advices, or ARC bluray lens they are willing to donate (JK )
Please post so here. Before I mess someting UP

For pen builds I would recommend the flex drive v4. With the flex drive you can use regular AAAs... and besides that it is small and efficient.
If you use a flex drive you will need to solder the case pin to the negative pin.

If this is your first build you might find it helpful to read some of the tutorials here.

RA_pierce said:

For pen builds I would recommend the flex drive v4. With the flex drive you can use regular AAAs... and besides that it is small and efficient.
If you use a flex drive you will need to solder the case pin to the negative pin.

If this is your first build you might find it helpful to read some of the tutorials here.

Click to expand...

Perhaps you did not read couple o' my posts...
I do not repeat NOT intent to spend 24$ for a driver! What's with all you?
You pay 24 $ for a driver which you can assemble (or similar driver, eqally usefull) yourself for 10x less money!
The problem is you acctually NEED to assemble something... so it is easier to throw a suitace full o' money to somebody to do it for you, now isn't it??!!

I go for as much DIY as possible, to keep my expenses at minimum's minimum.
If you want to know why, let's just say that i never owned any type of gaming console IN MY LIFE (which should explain my parent's incomes...)
Now any more advices of "get 100 $ worth of parts and call it DIY" type ??
I hope not.

Eudaimonium said:

Perhaps you did not read couple o' my posts...
I do not repeat NOT intent to spend 24$ for a driver! What's with all you?
You pay 24 $ for a driver which you can assemble (or similar driver, eqally usefull) yourself for 10x less money!
The problem is you acctually NEED to assemble something... so it is easier to throw a suitace full o' money to somebody to do it for you, now isn't it??!!

I go for as much DIY as possible, to keep my expenses at minimum's minimum.
If you want to know why, let's just say that i never owned any type of gaming console IN MY LIFE (which should explain my parent's incomes...)
Now any more advices of "get 100 $ worth of parts and call it DIY" type ??
I hope not.

Click to expand...

If you think you can build a lavadrive for $2.40, you are in for a shock

robjdixon said:

If you think you can build a lavadrive for $2.40, you are in for a shock

Click to expand...

1117 = comes to 1$ a piece,
33 ohm resistor... 0.20 hrk, that is about 5 c
switch found anywhere

PCB made for free cuz i already have acids, and fair amount od raw PCB's

So that comes dowd to... oh whaddaya know?
1.05 for better-than-ddl driver

4X litihums and two hosts for dirt cheap (THANK YOU RENNO) (little more than 10 $)

Already in possesion of bluray module.

3.50 for thermo paste (DX)
Solder used ~ not even 10 c

So, comes down to less than 14 $ for entire BLURAY pen build project, with rechargable batteries included (capacity of lithiums around 300 mAh, PHR draws 100 mA, through very complex algorythms and mathematical and quantum phisics formulas, that is calculated to be 3 hours or run time)

While you ppl are suggesting i get 24 $ flex drive ( which is boost converter, that makes run time on 2x AAA, like what? 10 seconds?) I get my self entire bluray pen for 14$.

C'mon people, what happened to "this forum is supposed to be source of all information laser hobbyist is going to need"
I asked if my project is good, are there any problems,
And all you said is : get 100 HRK driver

And what happened to "forum memebers are supposed to help each other?"
All you did is (try to) discourage me.

EDIT: And yeah, why am I even trying to explain this? Didn't I wrote that i cannot afford 15 $ lens?? And you say i get 24 $ driver.
How thoughtful.

You may want something like a 47uF capacitor on the input as well as one on the diode, for safety's sake. You will also find that Arctic Silver 5 is at least partially conductive. If you don't mind me asking, why are you making this build case-positive?

I agree with Eudaimonium.
Reason is simple.
People in Balkan don't have enough money for expensive hobbies like lasers.
We are trying to make it as cheaper as possible.

Boost driver is great for BR builds but is there any other cheaper way to make BR laser working with two AAA or 10440 batteries?
If he want to use 2x10440 what will happen with current?
Can 2x10440 give 100mA with LM1117 regulator?

I made BR build with 3x10440 but I had problem with current.
With fully charged batteries it pushes more than 100mA, but after some time current drops under 100mA.
I used Lm317T and he want to know if he can get stable 100mA with only 2x10440 but with LM1117....

charliebruce said:

You may want something like a 47uF capacitor on the input as well as one on the diode, for safety's sake. You will also find that Arctic Silver 5 is at least partially conductive. If you don't mind me asking, why are you making this build case-positive?

Click to expand...

Yes...He needs to make it case negative.
LM1117 can work only in series connection with positive pole of diode.

AS5 is not electrically conductive thermal grease.
He needs to connect negative wire from module to host...that is not difficult.

charliebruce said:

You may want something like a 47uF capacitor on the input as well as one on the diode, for safety's sake. You will also find that Arctic Silver 5 is at least partially conductive. If you don't mind me asking, why are you making this build case-positive?

Click to expand...

Because I don't have to bother placing spring at the end of the battery barrel on the host. Batteries go with + in. - goes to the spring of the driver in these lasers.
HERE people, is the example of helping and advicing people.
+ REP my man

As I know, LM1117 can't work if you connect it to negative pole of diode.
This is the same as LM317T.
They must be connected to positive pole of diode.
I tried that with dummy load and I can't make it work as you described.

Does anyone have LM1117 that can work in series connection with negative pole of diode?

Eudaimonium said:

1117 = comes to 1$ a piece,
33 ohm resistor... 0.20 hrk, that is about 5 c
switch found anywhere

PCB made for free cuz i already have acids, and fair amount od raw PCB's

So that comes dowd to... oh whaddaya know?
1.05 for better-than-ddl driver

4X litihums and two hosts for dirt cheap (THANK YOU RENNO) (little more than 10 $)

Already in possesion of bluray module.

3.50 for thermo paste (DX)
Solder used ~ not even 10 c

So, comes down to less than 14 $ for entire BLURAY pen build project, with rechargable batteries included (capacity of lithiums around 300 mAh, PHR draws 100 mA, through very complex algorythms and mathematical and quantum phisics formulas, that is calculated to be 3 hours or run time)

While you ppl are suggesting i get 24 $ flex drive ( which is boost converter, that makes run time on 2x AAA, like what? 10 seconds?) I get my self entire bluray pen for 14$.

C'mon people, what happened to "this forum is supposed to be source of all information laser hobbyist is going to need"
I asked if my project is good, are there any problems,
And all you said is : get 100 HRK driver

And what happened to "forum memebers are supposed to help each other?"
All you did is (try to) discourage me.

EDIT: And yeah, why am I even trying to explain this? Didn't I wrote that i cannot afford 15 $ lens?? And you say i get 24 $ driver.
How thoughtful.

Click to expand...

Relax. Nobody is trying to discourage you...
You asked for suggestions... I made one.

In the flexdrive's defense... It is a very good driver and more efficient than your LM1117 based driver... it is worth the money if you have it.

If I may make another suggestion- Sure modules have a slightly larger diameter than the Aixiz modules (you can get them cheap at Hightechdealz.com). They will fit more securely than an aixiz module in pen hosts. The acrylic lens that comes with them also has better transmission than the Aixiz lenses (in my experience) and does not need to be trimmed.
With the sure module you can press it directly into the host which means you don't need to spend money on thermal adhesives. Most are electrically isolating anyway.
Also, if you build your driver small enough, you may be able to squeeze it into the back of the module. This gives you room to add a separate PCB with switch and spring (connected to the driver through the back of the module). If you do it this way, the batteries won't put pressure on the driver (which could cause pins to break or a solder joint from shorting to the inside of the case).

You can also consider using the optics from the sled (assuming you are harvesting the diode from a sled) to fashion yourself an AR coated lens. The aspheric lens can be used to collimate the beam... all you have to do is remove the stock acrylic from the black plastic lens nut and replace it with the aspheric from the sled. This gives you 10-15% higher output power with no extra cost.

I hope your build goes well.

RA_pierce said:

Relax. Nobody is trying to discourage you...
You asked for suggestions... I made one.

In the flexdrive's defense... It is a very good driver and more efficient than your LM1117 based driver... it is worth the money if you have it.

If I may make another suggestion- Sure modules have a slightly larger diameter than the Aixiz modules (you can get them cheap at Hightechdealz.com). They will fit more securely than an aixiz module in pen hosts. The acrylic lens that comes with them also has better transmission than the Aixiz lenses (in my experience) and does not need to be trimmed.
With the sure module you can press it directly into the host which means you don't need to spend money on thermal adhesives. Most are electrically isolating anyway.
Also, if you build your driver small enough, you may be able to squeeze it into the back of the module. This gives you room to add a separate PCB with switch and spring (connected to the driver through the back of the module). If you do it this way, the batteries won't put pressure on the driver (which could cause pins to break or a solder joint from shorting to the inside of the case).

You can also consider using the optics from the sled (assuming you are harvesting the diode from a sled) to fashion yourself an AR coated lens. The aspheric lens can be used to collimate the beam... all you have to do is remove the stock acrylic from the black plastic lens nut and replace it with the aspheric from the sled. This gives you 10-15% higher output power with no extra cost.

I hope your build goes well.

Click to expand...

No go woth Sure modules.
I ordered, just a week ago, 10 blanks pack from aixiz, 25 $ total.
Could be one of the reasons I'm so jumpy with xx$ figures suggesions.
Sled's optics, as far as i know, have muuuch larger focal length, I would need to put it 1 and half cm from the diode away to get infinite focus.
I'm very happy with AixiZ modules for now, using thermal grease will help cool the module by dissipating heat to the entire host body. Works well for me.
Now about dual PCB setup... that one is a good idea...
I can place DDL inside Aixiz no prob, I've done that before (before i got my hands on AMC7135) i will definetly do that.
Thank you, will open a new thread with photos from start to end project.
Now for the two remaining problems.
1) Can 10440's kick out 100mA?
2) Have anybody tried 1117 on the negative of the batteries?

Thermal grease will do great job to conduct heat to host.
If you plan to use spring, that will push module outside of host.
One blob of glue between module and host will do great job to secure module in place.

I have made a bluray in a host that used to be a green pen laser. Mine used an LM1117, PHR, with capacitor as suggested above, and 2 x 10440 battery. It works well when the batteries are fully charged. As 10440's are not protected, make sure to not over-discharge them. Check the voltage now and then.

The 1117 is a positive side regulator, must be in positive side of circuit. To regulate on the negative side, you must use a negative side regulator such as LM337 for example.

Negative side regulators are used in green DPSS lasers because the IR pump diode is positive ground, so the laser is made positive ground and a negative side regulator is used. My handheld IR lasers are positive ground so I use negative side regulators in them.

I would suggest making your PHR laser as a negative ground device, but this is of course up to you. The 10440 batteries will be able to supply the diode and driver with enough current, so no worries there.

Last suggestion is use a test load to set up your newly made driver, and remember to discharge any capacitors before soldering in your laser diode !

Best of luck on your project ! Let us know how you do.

Bill.

billg519 said:

I have made a bluray in a host that used to be a green pen laser. Mine used an LM1117, PHR, with capacitor as suggested above, and 2 x 10440 battery. It works well when the batteries are fully charged. As 10440's are not protected, make sure to not over-discharge them. Check the voltage now and then.

The 1117 is a positive side regulator, must be in positive side of circuit. To regulate on the negative side, you must use a negative side regulator such as LM337 for example.

Negative side regulators are used in green DPSS lasers because the IR pump diode is positive ground, so the laser is made positive ground and a negative side regulator is used. My handheld IR lasers are positive ground so I use negative side regulators in them.

I would suggest making your PHR laser as a negative ground device, but this is of course up to you. The 10440 batteries will be able to supply the diode and driver with enough current, so no worries there.

Last suggestion is use a test load to set up your newly made driver, and remember to discharge any capacitors before soldering in your laser diode !

Best of luck on your project ! Let us know how you do.

Bill.

Click to expand...

Now that there is what i call help.
Of course i use test load and discharge caps. Read my sign
I made countless reddies so far.
Now, i have to find a small spring somewhere...
Alright, laser is case negative.

I know about not discharging lithiums below 2.75, however, voltage drops under load. I cannot test them inside the laser. Well, when I see my laser is a little weaker, i charge batteries. No worries there, lithiums can be charged countless times, opposite of NiMH's.

Ok thank you very much, +rep ofcourse.

If you wanted to make your pen host work with case-negative, you can put a small dot of solder on the end screw-cap, which presses against the negative side of the battery. I think that 10440s can put out enough current, but I haven't tried myself so I can't confirm this. You may be able to set up an LM1117 to work with a case-positive configuration, but I don't know if this is possible either.