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Building Phr 803t - stay tune =]

nosebleedXD

nosebleedXD

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so im still waiting for my phr 803t sled

but in the mean time, i assembled a driver myself so take a look and see if its good =]

and then somehow ill manage to assemble it on a prototype board
 

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Well, the thing on the left is the dummy load, you only need that to set the current on your real driver. The thing on the right is the real driver, that's all you will need in the end to run your actual diode.
 
yeah im waiting for a 9v clip to test out if the driver works, and some hookup wires since i dun have any as you notice i used really small pieces of wire as i only had like 10 cm of solid wire to work with
 
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So wait, you're going to hook the test load up to the driver, then the batteries right? Don't put power directly onto the driver without a diode or test load on it, it will kill the driver.
 
thanks for the heads up, i have a switch ready too for this

i am right now wondering how im suppose to solder this driver all together on my prototype board and fit it into a container =]
 
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bloompyle, voltage going through that dru=ivcer for short amount of time wont kill it, its a ddl "linear driver.
cheers
 
That's what I was told/read. That running power through a driver that isn't hooked up to anything can kill it. I'm also at a loss as to how you can tell if a driver is working by simply running power through it. If it had a diode on it, that would explain it. I'll search it in a minute.

nosebleedXD said:
thanks for the heads up, i have a switch ready too for this

i am right now wondering how im suppose to solder this driver all together on my prototype board and fit it into a container =]
Click to expand...

I can't help you with tht, though there are many that can, PM Daguin, he should be able to help, or Rckstr. ;)

TTerbo said:
bloompyle, voltage going through that driver for short amount of time wont kill it, its a ddl "linear driver.
Click to expand...

fixed ;) lol
 
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Running voltage through the driver without a load and then attaching the diode without shorting the driver first will kill the diode.
 
kk so i dun even have my diode yet

im gonna attach it to my test load as soon as i get a 9v battery clip

so attach driver to test load THEN hook up to power source

BTW, i wanna hook up a toggle switch to my build

can i use a toggle switch followed along with a button switch
 
You mean then attach the power ;)

PS: I've been told a few times that the 9V rectangle batteries aren't really that great. Something about bad mAH not too sure. I'd ask about em first...
 
nosebleedXD said:
thanks for the heads up, i have a switch ready too for this

i am right now wondering how im suppose to solder this driver all together on my prototype board and fit it into a container =]
Click to expand...

this should hwl you solder your dricer into a strip board. a few pages through has the layout and how to solder it together.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/diy-homemade-laser-diode-driver-26339.html





Bloompyle. there are different types of drivers. running something like flexdriver & rkcstr will die without load but a DDl for short amount of time wont.
 
I guess it all lies in the short amount of time part. I was just told that all drivers have an issue with that. And it made sense to my tiny brain... Sorry again for that.
 
hey thanks alot for the driver thing

ima wait till i get my diode now and ill assemble my driver when i get some rosin core solder
 
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also, if you use the rectangular 9v batt you will not get much burning time, maybe 10 minutes, tops. 9volts is good supply voltage, just not in that battery due to the really low mah.

michael
 
chipdouglas said:
also, if you use the rectangular 9v batt you will not get much burning time, maybe 10 minutes, tops. 9volts is good supply voltage, just not in that battery due to the really low mah.

michael
Click to expand...

See NoseBleed, that's why I said to contact him ;) He knows magnitudes more than I.
 
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