Building a 405nm Laser (old one died) need help with the diode / driver selection

FrozenClear · Apr 29, 2014

Hi Everyone!

I bought a cheap laser from ebay and I reversed the battery and it died. I want to replace the diode and driver and use the same host (Laser 301 Body), Battery (3.7 V), and heatsink (38mm diode) to get this laser working again.

On ebay I found these two items:

Diode

Driver

Will they work together?

Since this is my first build any help would be great!

Thanks,
Frozen

KRNAZNBOY · Apr 29, 2014

I don't think you can just replace the contents of a 301 body. And no, that diode and driver will not work.

If you are not willing to spend real money on a real laser, you should stick to the chinese crap.

Those diode are crap too. They claim 200mw, but only 35ma in? yea right!
Drivers are crap too.

Check out dtr: https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/

Or buy from the forum.

Don't waste your time

trust me

IsaacT · Apr 29, 2014

Everything KRNAZNBOY said times 2. Buy quality and you won't have to buy it 10 times trying to get it right.

FrozenClear · Apr 29, 2014

Hi Guys! Thanks for the replies!

I should clarify a little bit first. I want to build something cheap that would work so I can practice and learn before I invest in a "real" laser.

You guys are saying that the diode and driver won't work and I appreciate that information. Do you mind elaborating on the specifics as to why it would work? Remember I'm learning and I need all the help I can get

Thanks,
Frozen

The Lightning Stalker · Apr 29, 2014

Laserlands is usually a pretty good seller, so for the diodes, you are probably okay. Still it would be a
gamble though because of the error in the specs. You are either going to end up with a 200mW diode or a
5mW, depending on which spec was in error. Still you are likely to get diodes that actually work since he
generally knows what he is doing. The other guy I would avoid like the plague.

FrozenClear · Apr 29, 2014

Thanks for the response! I think I'm begining to understand why this won't work. I found another diode with a high working current.

Diode: Link

What do you think? Also what is mean by "sealed"

Thanks,
Frozen

The Lightning Stalker · Apr 30, 2014

Those look like a good 8x diode. Techhood is a fairly reputable seller. By "sealed", I think he means that
it is a closed can diode.

FrozenClear · Apr 30, 2014

Wow thanks for the info! Would you also be able recommend a 200+ mA driver that is ~10.5mm x ~17.0mm? I don't need the best driver in the world just something to "cut my teeth" on. I need some practice before I build my "real" laser!

Thanks,
Frozen

The Lightning Stalker · Apr 30, 2014

There is 405nm Laser Diode Driver 3 5 5V CC Circuit 2pcs Package | eBay if
you don't mind waiting a while. Or you could try the one from AixiZ and have it sooner, but I don't know
how it is adjusted. He says it can drive 200mW diodes, but there is no adjustment pot so I don't know
how that works.

John1a · Apr 30, 2014

-The Original specs of the diode-

I have the same one and it works. It is fairly high power. I have burned my hand with this shit!

You can see my thread, it is around here somewhere with CNC in its name. I bought from techhood too.

About the driver:
make your own configurable mA driver. There are plenty of nice schematics of the famous lm317 driver. This is what I did. Set it to 120mA (with a test load) and you will be fine.

FrozenClear · Apr 30, 2014

Thanks for all the great information! I have already placed the order for the diode and driver and I'll be waiting a few weeks for parts. Just a couple of questions in the mean time.

1) How important is having a diode press? Can I get by not having one for just this build? Is there a good way to do it without a press?

2) Do I have to use the conduction compound between the diode and heatsink?

3) Do I have to use the case pin on the diode?

4) The driver doesn't have a spring installed, where should I get the right side one for the -negative side of the battery?

Thanks,
Frozen

The Lightning Stalker · Apr 30, 2014

FrozenClear said:
1) How important is having a diode press? Can I get by not having one for just this build? Is there a good way to do it without a press?

No you need a press set. Look in the sale/trade section for Flaminpyro.

2) Do I have to use the conduction compound between the diode and heatsink?

No. In fact it is discouraged.

3) Do I have to use the case pin on the diode?

You don't have to use it unless you will be picking up contact with the case that way.

4) The driver doesn't have a spring installed, where should I get the right side one for the -negative side of the battery?

They can be found in many different places. You won't need anything special for a low
current diode like this. They can be found inside old toys and TV remotes easily found in
the trash. You can also buy them new on aliexpress.

John1a · May 1, 2014

springs can be found in pens too!

The Lightning Stalker · May 1, 2014

Yeah, but they're no good as contact material.

FrozenClear · May 1, 2014

Thanks for the help!

1) With the presses, I need a 3.8mm right now. In the future a lot of the diodes I've been looking at are 5.6mm. Is that a more common size? There is also a 9mm press. Which ones do I really need?

2) Got it, won't use it!

3) The laser I bought on ebay used the case pin and made contact with the case through the heatsink i assume. Should I do it the same way?

4) I think I'll cannibalize the spring from the broken driver. It should work fine.

-Frozen

The Lightning Stalker · May 1, 2014

FrozenClear said:
1) With the presses, I need a 3.8mm right now. In the future a lot of the diodes I've been looking at are 5.6mm. Is that a more common size? There is also a 9mm press. Which ones do I really need?

5.6mm is the most common size for smaller diodes. 9mm is more common in higher power
diodes. It is up to you to figure out which ones you need. You can also buy diodes already
pressed into modules. Otherwise you can use a metal tube or something is the right size if
you can find one.

3) The laser I bought on ebay used the case pin and made contact with the case through the heatsink i assume. Should I do it the same way?

Probably the one case where you would not want to do it is with a round driver that is pressed
into a brass ring. Unless you have a screw or make some other type of contact that can be
soldered to.

Building a 405nm Laser (old one died) need help with the diode / driver selection

FrozenClear

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KRNAZNBOY

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IsaacT

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The Lightning Stalker

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The Lightning Stalker

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John1a

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