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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

BR pen from China - module and driver

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Jun 24, 2009
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A while ago I ordrered two of those cheap BR lasers with the firm intention of disassembling one of them to see what makes them tick. So I took one of the units I received yesterday from "Lutong Shipping Ltd" in Kowloon, HK and after a quick test to see if it worked, I proceeded to take it apart.

510_pensbr.jpg


Extraction:

Ok folks so this isn't going to be nice! my first attempt at disassembling the pen was to gently extract the guts of the laser so that I could perhaps reuse the newwish style host for another project... NOT!

Trying to remove the silver end cap, the rubber band I had put on it slipped and the vise grip gouged thoroughly the cap. Looking down the brass tube, I saw that there are two plastic rings (one around the brass module, one securing the driver board).

No amount of pushing, prodding or pulling loosened the assembly from the tube, and add to that the pushbutton that protrudes way too much to be pressed down all the way, it's almost the fable of the boat in the bottle, how the hell did they get all this stuff in there?

One hint is that all the components seem to be well secured with something like loctite or cyanoacrylate (and a lot of it) . So I resorted to the extreme measure of cutting-off the tube on its entire lenght with a dremel cutting disk. It's a shame bacause I would have recycled that host for one of my 30mW grenies... Oh well. The things we do for science! ;)

Components:

So here's the freed module.

510_modulefrn.jpg


510_moduleback.jpg


I think I may have damaged the inductor during the extraction (top edge is broken off), but applying 3V and pressing the button gave me a clean beam. The driver circuit is quite small, and has more components than a FlexDrive. The diode looks like a PHR although I haven't been able to see the small etched data matrix barcode on it.

After loosening the front aperture cap of the module, inside it is a single acrylic lens and a spring.

510_moduleoptics.jpg


510_diodewindow.jpg


The lens appears to be plano convex or with a positive meniscus, but it's hard to tell even with a magnifying lens. The glass window of the laser diode has a shiny yellow AR coating. Well that's about as far as I can disassemble the unit. Pushing out the diode out of the module would probably break it and wouldn't give me any more details because correct me if I'm wrong but no manufacturer puts markings on the side of diode cases, right?

Performance:

With the bare module, I can do a few power and intensity tests.

510_testbenchmod.jpg


510_pwrtest.jpg


Starting with a 3 volt power pack made up of 2 c-cells (3.15v no load). I hope the damaged inductor won't skew my readings but here goes:

Voltage across the diode in operation: 4.65 V
Current flowing though the circuit in operation (between batt. + and spring): 98 mA
The circuit delivers (on the laserbee) about 29 mW of purple photons.

So there you go.

I'd like to compare the guts of this laser with the ones sold by etimeshop... anyone has pictures of the inners of those pens?

Thanks :D
Robert
 
Last edited:





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Consumes 45mW and output is 30 mW?
Effectivnes of entire system is 64% ?!

There is no way. Bluray diode alone has about effectivenes of around 20-25 % , don't know exactly.

Please recheck your calculation, something is seriously wrong .

(Hint, consumtion of 0.1 A at 3 V is 300mW consumption of electrical power, not 45 mW)
 
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You're totally right, Eudaimonium, I had a brain fart... ;)
quick math is not my forte! LOL
Edited my post above.
- Robert
 
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You're totally right, Eudaimonium, I had a brain fart... ;)
quick math is not my forte! LOL
Edited my post above.
- Robert
No worries, I am not too good with math either, I was just like "Huh?" when I saw 50 mW input and 30mW output :D

Excellent experiment, nice to see what the thing looks like inside.
 
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Excellent experiment, nice to see what the thing looks like inside.

Thanks, and as I mentioned, i'd love to see if other members have pictures of the drives in similar pens but from different providers, to see if they all use the same module or they have a variety of circuits and brass modules/optics to work with.

Been trying to identify the values of the components but have found nothing about the regulator IC so far. I'll keep searching.

Robert
 
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Thanks, and as I mentioned, i'd love to see if other members have pictures of the drives in similar pens but from different providers, to see if they all use the same module or they have a variety of circuits and brass modules/optics to work with.

Been trying to identify the values of the components but have found nothing about the regulator IC so far. I'll keep searching.

Robert
SS14 is a schottky diode, IC is very similar to LM3410X I use, and J107 is the resistor, though I have no idea what value would that be, LM3410 uses 190mV reference voltage so to get anything around 50mA or so, one would need around 4 ohms .

Well, as long as it's working, it's cool.

Beamspecifications are not too great I presume?
 
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...

So here's the freed module.

510_modulefrn.jpg

Oh no, I see a little pot top left corner of pc board... I am getting twiches and started to drool... could you increase (slowly) the current? Should increase the output power, but it may also kill the diode. What is the current mA and, if you increase it, how high you went?

Good job, by the way! (Rep+1)

Thanks you very much!
Jose
 
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Thanks, and as I mentioned, i'd love to see if other members have pictures of the drives in similar pens but from different providers, to see if they all use the same module or they have a variety of circuits and brass modules/optics to work with.

Been trying to identify the values of the components but have found nothing about the regulator IC so far. I'll keep searching.

Robert

My camera crapped out, but the motel268 5mW bluray laser is way different from that. I'll try to put some pics up later.
 
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Any idea what the max current output is for these drivers? Could be a cheap source of drivers/hosts ;)
 
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Actually, the beam specs, even with that tiny little acrylic lens, weren't that bad. At 8ft, the dot is remarkably small, although a tiny bit elongated. The dot would be about 1.5mm x 2mm. Not much of a halo around the dot, but a bit of artefacts very near the dot.

After I loosened the aperture cap, I could focus the beam a bit and make the focal point closer, but not much farther than what it was set at, The brass module has thick walls but its hollow and there's at least 7.5mm between the top of the diode and the lens (which can be ajusted to anything between 6 and 9 mm). The module hsd a diameter of exactly 10mm, compared to the 12mm of a standard greenie module, so that's why there were plastic inserts/rings inside to hold the guts together.

As for the driver itself, it may indeed be an interesting source of efficient driver circuits. I'll see if I can make a schematic of the circuitry and determine the R and C values. It's a small driver circuit, just a bit longer than a MicroFlex.

Thanks all :D

Robert
 

seoguy

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Great job, roddenberry! :gj:

roddenberry said:
One hint is that all the components seem to be well secured with something like loctite or cyanoacrylate (and a lot of it) . So I resorted to the extreme measure of cutting-off the tube on its entire lenght with a dremel cutting disk. It's a shame bacause I would have recycled that host for one of my 30mW grenies... Oh well. The things we do for science!

IIRC, don't they make a chemical that dissolves superglue? Might be worth checking into, if this is a common design strategy for these BR pens.

The diode looks like a PHR although I haven't been able to see the small etched data matrix barcode on it.

Have you tried measuring the current at the LD, or adjusting that pot?

The idea of a 5mw 405 seems a bit of a misnomer - I suspect that many of these cheap BluRay models have been reverse pot-modded DOWN at the factory, in order to allow for export.

Voltage across the diode in operation: 4.65 V
Current flowing though the circuit in operation (between batt. + and spring): 98 mA
The circuit delivers (on the laserbee) about 29 mW of purple photons.

Assuming 3V in under load, and wild guestimating for the sake of discussion, say 80% efficiency on the boost, would result in about 51ma to the LD.

At 29mw out, that would put it in the range of observed efficiencies for PHR's.

See -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/meta-topic-pinout-performance-actual-ld-26417.html

HumanSymphony said:
Any idea what the max current output is for these drivers? Could be a cheap source of drivers/hosts ;)

That's what I was thinking too. I have an etime, works great, unfortunately unlike roddenberry I only have one - and it's too much fun to get sacrificed to science! LOL

I also bought a tiny greenie with that same idea in mind, it runs off of just a single AAA and is not much bigger than the battery! Given the currents involved in a green DPSS, it must have one hellofa interesting boost circuit inside!

Unfortunately, that one looks near impossible to take apart without destroying it. :(

roddenberry said:
I'd like to compare the guts of this laser with the ones sold by etimeshop... anyone has pictures of the inners of those pens?

I remember a while back some ppl had said they had taken-apart the etime's, but have yet to come across any pics of the innards.

Speaking of which...

Pontiacg5 said:
My camera crapped out, but the motel268 5mW bluray laser is way different from that. I'll try to put some pics up later.

Hey Pontiaccg5, did you forget about this?

roddenberry said:
As for the driver itself, it may indeed be an interesting source of efficient driver circuits. I'll see if I can make a schematic of the circuitry and determine the R and C values.

I would be VERY interested in seeing that!

With the popularity of higher voltage diodes, and many of the popular hosts being of the single-cell variety, seems like everything needs a boost driver now. God knows we could use some cost-effective alternatives!
 
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Great job, roddenberry! :gj:

I would be VERY interested in seeing that!

Yeah, I should get to it... I've been busy like crazy these past days, but I have a relatively quiet weekend coming up for Canada day (Jul. 1st) so I'll sit down and "reverse engineer" that little board. That way, we laser DIYers can have all the specs when we play around with those cheap little pointers from the land of the great wall.

For now, I'm going to spend the weekend at the Montreal Jazz fest and catch as many shows as I can, including front row seats for Victor Wooten! W00t! ;)

Robert
 
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Nice work by all--BUT --FYI I got scammed by motel268- and would suggest getting your lasers from anybody but them--
 
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Thanks... I was just about to take some pics...
Mine in the same as yours...and I had to destroy the Host
as well to get it out...


Jerry

They do fight like crazy resisting pushing them out. There is absolutely no way to extract it without destroying the host without a vice and wood block.

I did manage to save my host, but I did mess it up a little. The part in the middle, with the threads, is pressed into the battery holder. I turned it too far when it was in the vice and actually turned the pressed in piece. Now when I screw the two halves together the button does not line up with the pen clip. You would probably never see it unless you have insane OCD like me :D

One thing I suggest, after you get the end cap in there stuff a cotton ball in the tube to protect the lens. Then use a scotchbrite pad or something similar to remove all the glue that is in the way where they glued the cap on. The module slides out fairly easily out the front until you get to where the glue was. I don't think it is possible to push it out the other way.

You can use a really small screwdriver or similar and slip it under the driver and press directly on the back of the module so there is no risk of screwing up the driver. There is a little gap in the black driver holding board that lets you do that.

It does have a standard Aixiz lens thread, so you can use one of the tools I think either Pyro or Jayrob were selling to pull the module out from the front instead of pushing it.
 




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