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---Bluray Open Can Pics---

JLSE

JLSE

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Has anyone tried this before?? The diode I used is a generic PS3 sled, I am curious if there is a way to squeeze some more power out of these ones. And what better place to start, but to remove as much obstruction as possible. Does the facet window provide any further purpose other than protection? When I get some time, im going to dive into this idea a little further. Any ideas on this one?
 

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JLSE

JLSE

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pic#2
 

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JLSE

JLSE

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pic#3
 

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Scog

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This is very impressive. How did you get the cover off so cleanly?
As far as I know the cover is only to protect the diode from dust and such. The wires inside are fragile and I doubt it would be very good to have any small particles getting burnt on the emitter.
To be honest though i think you will be fine now that you have got it off, might even get a little more power like you hope. :)
 
rog8811

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I like the pictures....but could I ask you to make them a bit smaller, I am probably not the only one here with a slowish computer, it can take ages to load then you have to scroll around to find the important bit of the photo.
600 X 400 pixels is ideal...see below

Regards rog8811

*Edit thanks for re-sizing them, that is a lot easier to work with ;)
 

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Switch

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Nice view inside the blu-ray can :)
Btw, I just drag the pictures to a new tab , then use zoom out if I want a wider view. :p
 
JLSE

JLSE

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Sorry about the size, I did crop them and forgot to resize them. Im practicing my open can mod techniques in preperation for the 6x diodes :)  Ive noticed some differences in the behavior of the light, before and after the cans removal. The face of the can robs power when used with thinner optics. Without the can, the beam has a wider spread. When you use optics that focus @ a closer range, the lens absorbs more light. With  the can, no matter what you still lose some. The only problem is getting the can off without the use of a Dremel. The vibration they cause cant be good for the diode, but have found another method for removal. Now its a matter of getting the can off without breaking the glass. So far I have done it with only cracking the glass. The first ones I tried shattered it completely, but with a little practice it only gets better. I ordered a few 6x, and am hoping they have no glass on them ;)



* Fixed it...
 

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JLSE

JLSE

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Scog said:
This is very impressive. How did you get the cover off so cleanly?
As far as I know the cover is only to protect the diode from dust and such. The wires inside are fragile and I doubt it would be very good to have any small particles getting burnt on the emitter.
To be honest though i think you will be fine now that you have got it off, might even get a little more power like you hope. :)
Click to expand...


For this I used a pair of vice grips to support the diode (all grounded of course) and snip with side cutters below the pedestal. This way the tool is opposite the wires. Carefully peel a small piece of the can, away from the center. When you get enough of the can pulled back like a little tab, its time to start peeling it in a rotary fasion. Although one slip can end it all, some practice on old dead diodes is very helpful.

** Forgot to mention, it helps to do the initial cuts holding it all up side down. Not that it really matters, as the glass shoots dust everywhere when it breaks. Most likely covering the important elements. The key is to not shatter the glass in the first place :)
 
Hemlock_Mike

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WannaBurn --

Nice work and photos. The 6x does have glass - I know, I broke one :(
We'll be watching for your updates --
Thanks from all.....

Mike
 
Hemlock_Mike

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The only one I know about so far for a "reasonable" price is the GGW-H20L.

Mike

Corrected the Model#
 
jayrob

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wannaburn said:
Thanks, ill definately post (even the screwups) I ordered the 6x LG,a bit pricey considering what another member has found them for. Which unit did you use? Im hoping to get lucky, and get one without the glass and am crossing my fingers.

This is the one I ordered:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=250229417637&_trksid=p3984.cWON.m313.lVI



cheers.
Click to expand...

That's the same 6 X drive that Hemlock Mike and drlava first harvested. (Mike meant GGW-H20L) Man, your going to try to peel the can off of that high dollar diode? Phew! You may not really need to try to get more power out of that one!
Jay
 
JLSE

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Well maybe not the first one I build ;) With the price I paid, and the risk involved already, I do believe walking before running is in order. If its a low cost diode, the stress factor is not there. But for some reason, I tend to fumble with the more expensive parts.
Im probably going to stare at the first one for a week or so, before I get the nerve up. and then the second or third, ill peel one open.
 
jayrob

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wannaburn said:
Well maybe not the first one I build ;) With the price I paid, and the risk involved already, I do believe walking before running is in order. If its a low cost diode, the stress factor is not there. But for some reason, I tend to fumble with the more expensive parts.
Im probably going to stare at the first one for a week or so, before I get the nerve up. and then the second or third, ill peel one open.
Click to expand...

I know that feeling. I've messed up and made some really bad blunders, mostly due to being nervous with an expensive diode. Also, I learned the hard way that the pin connection is different on these blu-ray harvests. If you haven't already seen this, I'll save you the heartache...make sure you take a look here:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1203129030/75#82
Jay
 
JLSE

JLSE

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The chassis is ground yes? Its funny, I use the DX heatsinks for a lot of my stuff. The red 70mw labby used to be + chassis, then they changed it (and didnt email me :-/) So the other day I decide to make a burning pointer, for some reason the diode and driver get hot, but no red? Well duh, I figure the polarity is got to be the issue, and even after the torture I put it through it still burns as if new. I was very surprised to see it lived. Some of the DX diodes are quite durable when it comes to driver errors.

This is the same host im using for my 6x. I put in a red as a mock up, and it puts out 100mW. The casing is a ex DX 20mW green, they have lots of room for a non DPSS setup, and have a clever heat sink setup.
 

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