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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

blu-ray show down. 6x vs 803

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So I've had the pleasure of using a power meter today (Thank you very much dark horse for letting me borrow it!!) and i've been doing some tests on the stronger blu-ray diodes. The results are interesting. The tests were done with a 6x diode and a 'strong' xbox diode, both at 122.5mA. The only difference between the two is that the xbox diode is an open can. With the open can the lens needs to get much closer for the same focus, therefore collecting more light. Next week I'll have an xbox open can vs closed can showdown.

ANYWAY... onto the results!!

6x @ 122.5mA    with acrylic lens: 110mW peak/ 102mW avg    with Glass lens (AR coated for red): 95mW peak/90mW avg  No Lens: 135mW peak 130avg

PHR-803T *OPEN CAN* @ 122.5mA     with acrylic lens: 100mW peak / 97mW avg     Glass (AR coated for red):  88mW peak 86mW Avg   No lens: 122mW peak  118avg

Discuss  :cool:
 





Switch

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That's interesting.It's pretty close.How sure are you guys that the 6x diodes can't go way beyond that? :-/ I mean, have you looked at the datasheet?Have you looked at the 803 datasheet? :-/
 
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I think 6x with acrylic lens is the winner!

But... costs. Which is more expensive to acquire?
 
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Switch said:
That's interesting.It's pretty close.How sure are you guys that the 6x diodes can't go way beyond that? :-/ I mean, have you looked at the datasheet?Have you looked at the 803 datasheet? :-/

That's the biggest issue here. I'm sure the 6x is capable of going further, but who wants to risk a 270 dollar diode? Does anyone know what diode specifically the LG burner has in it? It would be great if we could find the official data sheet for it. I would drive my 6x at around 135mA but my driver is set up with fixed resistors and I don't really want to swap them around just yet. Its working good now and I just want to enjoy it for a bit before I go tinkering again ;D
 

Switch

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Uh huh.....so you're just driving them to around 100-125mA because that's what everybody else is doing.It would make sense to me if they were capable of much more.But yeah, the price....it's not the same as testing a reader or dvd diode.::)
Anyway, what if those are being underestimated just like the HD-DVD ones and in fact to be as capable as red opencans, that would be freaking awesome, it could make air fluoresce :p ;D
 
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Excellent, more numbers. I would say the 803 diode is the winner, once you factor in the cost differece. I mean, the 803 diode can now be had for $20-50 (or less), while the 6x is still $200-300?? There isn't a significant difference between the two @ 120mA.

However it remains to be seen how reliable the 803 is @ 120mA - it may not last long. Also, the 6x may be capable of much more power, reliably. So until we know a bit more, have a few more datapoints, it remains to be seen.

Personally I'm very happy with my 803 diode running at 50+ mW (82.5mA) - I couldn't put it down last night! So I'm content to wait another year or two until the costs on the 100+ mW violet burners come down.

I also have to wonder what percentage of the light the diode window blocks - the fact the 803 was open can could only help it in your test. For the record I think diodes should be in a sealed can for longevity reasons.
 
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Gus,
With the can removed and the lens closer to the diode, does this affect the beam diameter? I am thinking it will not, only a shorter focal-distance would, but I would really like to know, I am still looking for a little smaller beam-diameter.
Also, since you now own the tool for removing cans, are you offering this service to others, for a small fee of course? ::)
Dark Horse
 
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Dark_Horse said:
Gus,
With the can removed and the lens closer to the diode, does this affect the beam diameter? I am thinking it will not,  only a shorter focal-distance would, but I would really like to know, I am still looking for a little smaller beam-diameter.
Also, since you now own the tool for removing cans, are you offering this service to others, for a small fee of course? ::)
Dark Horse

I'll rip your cans off! Or you can just borrow the tool if ya want. :cool:
 

JLSE

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This is a thread worth reading! Nice work Gooey, I wanted to open my 6x but was hesitant, so I threw in the towel and bought one to see the design of the tool up close. It should be getting here next week, right beside my Lava drivers. Does it remove the can without fracturing the glass? This is the key to it, if the glass so much as cracks it sprays a fine dust all over the inside of the diode and your money takes a big baaawooosh :mad: Any pics of the removed section? I would like to see where it separates.
 
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I've pushed a 6x to 160 mA and got 167 mW.. This was for a short time and my graph is still straight.
You didn't find this here :D

Mike
 
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Dave -- Stick with it. Your new meter ( which I was bidding on !!) Will prove a valuable tool for you ;D

Mike
 
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Maybe we need a place to post our ebay "names" so we arent bidding against each other. I'm glad you got it as you will use it to help others here. Sharing info is how we progress.

Mike
 

JLSE

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Hemlock Mike said:
I've pushed a 6x to 160 mA and got 167 mW.. This was for a short time and my graph is still straight.
You didn't find this here  :D

Mike

For some reason I missed something with my first 6x when setting up the driver. The first time I turned it on, and looked up at the MM it was @ 160 or in the mid 160's. I havnt noticed any annomalies with it, but have not returned to that high of a setting. I think I will try it again with the proper driver (not the 7805) :-X
 
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WannaB ---

Start around 100 mA and work up.  Graph the power and stay below the knee.  I have not done any extended testing at 160 mA but you survived the test at that level.  Did you get a power reading to confirm mine ???

Mike
 




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