blu-ray show down. 6x vs 803

I'll rip your cans off! Or you can just borrow the tool if ya want.  

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:-/ :-[
....Oh, ok ;D
I see you put the meter to good use, Nice work
Dark Horse

Hemlock Mike said:

WannaB ---

Start around 100 mA and work up.  Graph the power and stay below the knee.  I have not done any extended testing at 160 mA but you survived the test at that level.  Did you get a power reading to confirm mine ???

Mike

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No, I was in a panic to disconnect the power. With the power im trying to figure out my LaserCheck as its not very accurate at this nm. I seem to get a better reading at 400nm but have to compare with another lpm.

wannaburn said:

This is a thread worth reading! Nice work Gooey, I wanted to open my 6x but was hesitant, so I threw in the towel and bought one to see the design of the tool up close. It should be getting here next week, right beside my Lava drivers. Does it remove the can without fracturing the glass? This is the key to it, if the glass so much as cracks it sprays a fine dust all over the inside of the diode and your money takes a big baaawooosh   Any pics of the removed section? I would like to see where it separates.

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I did have pictures of the removed sections... but I deleted them because I didn't think anyone would want them lol. Anyway, for the tool to work right you need to make sure all the allen bolts are TIGHT. Mine came from thorlabs with just about every screw loose. The one in the handle that you turn is a pain in particular. It's a very tiny size... maybe a 1.5mm allen wrench. After everything is tight it works like a champ, but you still must use caution and be patient. Its not like a can opener in the sense that it doesn't remove the can with just one revolution. Its more like a pipe cutter, just keep rotating until the can falls off. But make sure to use the stop screw, as when the can pops off you don't want to smash the insides. As far as where it cuts the can, just barely above the golden base of the diode. Hope that helped!! Oh, and no it doesn't break the glass when you remove the can.

Thats was I figured, I have a few hobby sized pipe cutters for soft metals. I had the idea a while ago, but never heard of the tool until your post  If the same rules apply as of that of the pipe cutter, the more turns to cut the better with the least ammount of pressure. Doing it this way will make for less of a taper on the cut edge, and less chance of hitting anything important.

Good to hear about the glass! ;D

wannaburn said:

Thats was I figured, I have a few hobby sized pipe cutters for soft metals. I had the idea a while ago, but never heard of the tool until your post  If the same rules apply as of that of the pipe cutter, the more turns to cut the better with the least ammount of pressure. Doing it this way will make for less of a taper on the cut edge, and less chance of hitting anything important.

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Bingo.

When turning the pot and increase the ma, i get to the point where (and i do this very slowly) the beam gives a slight flicker and slightly dims. When turned back its normal again, is this the point of no return? I can visually see the brighness increase stedily, so I dont think its at the point where there is more heat than light?

is this on the 803 or the 6x? and what current level was it at when it 'flickered'?

This was the 6x but I didnt have the meter hooked up at the time. I was just going by the brightness across the room. But next time I wont be so lazy and try to get some numbers.

Guys -- When you are pushing the limits, METER everything. We have graphs here and want data to fill in gaps.
DrLava & I publish graphs on a lot of diodes but if you have wierd data, we need to know especially on 6x BluRay.

Mike

I'll do some metering tonight, as I still have my hot little hands on a laser power meter, but right now I'm using the rckstr driver so I cant do much resistance changing. I'm aiming for 150mA. So we'll see what happens.