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Blu-ray burner diode swap?

yobresal

yobresal

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Well I am still going to work everyday, the only difference is now I am not going out at night or on the weekends. Instead of spending money at restauants, bars and strip clubs I have been focussing my spending online. Mostly laser related goodies!
 





Tech_Junkie

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Its amazing how much $$$ the clubs eat. Especially the strip bars LOL.

In Florida a liquor license for a club was over $100,000. So the majority of the clubs were BYOB. It was great. Wish it was like that all over.
 
yobresal

yobresal

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Well that went well. I kind of beat the crap out of the drive. Totaled it is more like it. I pretty much pulled a Michael Bolton on the darn thing. I did however harvest the most powerful blu-ray diode I have ever heard of.
 
Glutton

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lol, I did the same thing to my first 8x drive.

What kinda powa you get?
 
yobresal

yobresal

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I don't even want to say. I am afraid you will all think I am lying.
I am using the 4175 Jayrob host with a big heatsink, I am using a Jayrob lens, and I also removed the window from the front of the diode.
This thing is burning the hair of of my arm.....unfocused. It is the most powerful handheld laser I have ever owned. And i have owned 2 500mW green lasers.
 
Glutton

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Haha, I never posted about my 535mW LG because I didn't think people would believe me.

But now I'm curious? Did you break 600mW?
 
yobresal

yobresal

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I am tempted to mail this out to someone to have the output verified by a second meter. Or maybe have a laser testing party with someone who lives nearby. Anybody live nearby with a laserBEE?
 
Meatball

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yobresal said:
I don't even want to say. I am afraid you will all think I am lying.
I am using the 4175 Jayrob host with a big heatsink, I am using a Jayrob lens, and I also removed the window from the front of the diode.
This thing is burning the hair of of my arm.....unfocused. It is the most powerful handheld laser I have ever owned. And i have owned 2 500mW green lasers.
Click to expand...

That's quite impressive yobresal..

I can't wait to get my 12X! It's on the way!
 
michaelzirbes

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yobresal said:
I am using the 4175 Jayrob host with a big heatsink, I am using a Jayrob lens, and I also removed the window from the front of the diode.
Click to expand...

How easy was removing the window from the front of the diode?

I was thinking about doing that with mine since the window is starting to have what looks like burn marks on it. I tried cleaning the window with windex and a q-tip but that didn't help.

Thanks,
mz
 
yobresal

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Fairly easy. You can either cut the metal right around the top or bottom of the can or you can attempt to shatter the glass and then carefully shake out the broken pieces. Both was are risky and not worth it. You might just be looking at the coating.
 
michaelzirbes

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yobresal said:
Fairly easy. You can either cut the metal right around the top or bottom of the can or you can attempt to shatter the glass and then carefully shake out the broken pieces. Both was are risky and not worth it. You might just be looking at the coating.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info yobresal.

There's definitely something on the glass that is changing the shape of the beam when unfocused...

mz
 
yobresal

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In that case it may be beneficial for you to remove the glass. There are some members who in the past have offered a de-canning service.
 
Flaminpyro

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Yes I can decan your diode for you or just remove the front portion of the can with the window in it, your choice $4.00 any and all soldering $1.00 + shipping.

Pyro...


yobresal said:
In that case it may be beneficial for you to remove the glass. There are some members who in the past have offered a de-canning service.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
HIMNL9

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Uhm, about your original question, anyway, i think not, or at least with a lot of difficult ..... the diode is not just glued and soldered in the sled ..... you need also to align it with the rest of the optics, and rotate it for match the polarization plane .....

Maybe, if you reach to remove the original one from the heatsink without damage the heatsink, nor unglue it from the rest of the sled, and then re-glue the new one EXACTLY in the same position and depth, in this case you have a good 50% of possibility that it still work when you reassemble it ..... otherwise, i can say, maybe, 5% of possibilities to realign all correctly (h and V plane, grating, ploarization and distance) without a specific machine (we're talking about microns, not about big shifting like 0.1mm :p)
 
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