Arrived !!!

Hello all ,

I have ordered a PS3 Laser Lens (KES-400AAA) from PSXBOY and it arrived today , I opened the package , and surprised with the small size !!!

I harvested the diode and its ready to be connected to the housing and the battries
But I want to know what items do I need to use to make it lase ? I mean the driver , which parts , what values of resistors , capacitors ?

Thanks ,
Awf

the package

the box

!!!

The diode

I just want to know what items do I need to use to make it lase ? I mean the driver , which parts , what values of resistors , capacitors ?

Thanks ,
Awf

This website has all of that info and a whole lot more if you spend a little time browsing around.

Be careful with static!

Use the DDL driver, it's easy to use. I can't remember the parts, but is you search for it in the forums, you will most likely find a parts list.

trublu832 said:

This website has all of that info and a whole lot more if you spend a little time browsing around.

Click to expand...

Thanks , I know but I've been looking and no information I can find (I need)

FireMyLaser said:

Be careful with static!

Use the DDL driver, it's easy to use. I can't remember the parts, but is you search for it in the forums, you will most likely find a parts list.

Click to expand...

Thanks , I will search for it

But how do I remove that thing on the diode soldered on the pins?

Put solder between the pins and make it all fuse together. While its still liquid (you can keep it liquid with the soldering iron) you can just flip it upside down and peel it of with a toothpick. This can't take any longer than ~5 seconds (work in steps to keep it cool) or you might damage the diode. And wear a ESD-wristband at all time while handling the diode.

DDL driver thread, video tutorial.
Rkcstr drivers, Flexdrives.

You might want to leave that "thing" (PCB) on the underside of the diode on it.

It makes soldering wires to it much easier AND safer. Without it, solder can flow down the leg and short to the base. I always leave it on.


About the driver. Read about the 317 driver chido linked, and use 39-42mA of current to be safe.
You can calculate the resistor you need using this formula R = U / I (aka Ohm's Law)
R is the resistance you will need, U is the drivers sense voltage (1.25V for the LM317) and I is the current you want. You need the current in A, not mA or the calculation will be wrong.

To get 39mA, you would need R = 1.25V / 0.039A = 32 Ohms
To get 42mA, you would need R = 1.25 / 0.042 = 29.7 Ohms.

Now these resistor values don't exist, so you can use 33 Ohms to get 38mA or 30 Ohms to get 41.6mA.

Or you could use a resistor value of 25 Ohms (if you can get it), to limit the max current to 50mA, but use a 100 Ohm pot in series with it, to fine tune the current. You need to start with the max pot resistance and slowly turn it, while measuring the current, untill you reach the current you want.


Or, you could just buy driver. One costs less than the components for a 317, the other can make your laser really small by driving it from a single Li-Ion cell

Oh, and be VERY careful about ESD! 405nm diodes are way more sensitive, than reds. You should really practice on reds first.

I'm sure your diode is still alive, but if you power the driver from a PSU you could easily kill it. Be careful, and always think twice, before touching it (ground yourself first).

The 25 ohm resistor (I use 15 ohm, just in case if got a freak) and 100 ohm pot is the way to go with blu-ray. Threshold current (when it start to lase) + 10mA for the best result.

Each and every BR diode is different.

where can you get/make a wristband to stop static?