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AIXIZ driver issues/General help (405nm 50mW)

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CaseyKneale

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Jan 8, 2016
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Hi all,

I'm new to the whole laser thing working on my first build. Although I am new I am well aware of things like ESD, heat-sinks, grounded tools, basic electronic theory, etc.

I am hoping to use one of these 50mW blu-ray laser diodes (SLD3232VF - http://www.lillyelectronics.com/download/ICPDF-SLD3232VF-GD.PDF) in a scientific project, but am having trouble getting it to lase.

Couple quick questions about the diode. Does the common pin necessarily have to make contact with a "case" or "heat-sink" or can it be left floating for all intensive purposes?

So I bought a driver board from AIXIZ . Having read through a few posts I found that this has been a topic of discussion (http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/making-your-aixiz-driver-work-solution-56733.html). So I have tried tying up the TTL+ to the VCC+ with a typical low power diode. Interestingly, I get 0 voltage coming to the laser diode PCB traces with the cathode facing the TTL+ (multimeter across LD+ and LD- or LD-/null). With the cathode facing the VCC+ using a 5.05V power supply (cell phone charger) the voltage drops only slightly to 4.98V. This is contradictory for what the forum post (linked previously) states? Is something wrong with my board?

Either way I am failing to lase, even using a fresh diode (operating under the assumption I fried the first one). Considering I have tinkered a bit with the diode(s) by now what is the likelihood it is burnt out? Is there a way to test for diode failure?

Sorry for the long post, really appreciate any advice and will respond with details/tests. Thanks
 
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10fenny

10fenny

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I have had a few of those drivers show up dead.. they are pretty cheap though. I suggest trying another one. Maybe try a different power supply.
I took me awhile to figure out the ttl and + bridging to make them work.. Very frustrating at first
 
diachi

diachi

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Feb 22, 2008
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CaseyKneale said:
Hi all,

I'm new to the whole laser thing working on my first build. Although I am new I am well aware of things like ESD, heat-sinks, grounded tools, basic electronic theory, etc.

I am hoping to use one of these 50mW blu-ray laser diodes (SLD3232VF - http://www.lillyelectronics.com/download/ICPDF-SLD3232VF-GD.PDF) in a scientific project, but am having trouble getting it to lase.

Couple quick questions about the diode. Does the common pin necessarily have to make contact with a "case" or "heat-sink" or can it be left floating for all intensive purposes?

So I bought a driver board from AIXIZ . Having read through a few posts I found that this has been a topic of discussion (http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/making-your-aixiz-driver-work-solution-56733.html). So I have tried tying up the TTL+ to the VCC+ with a typical low power diode. Interestingly, I get 0 voltage coming to the laser diode PCB traces with the cathode facing the TTL+ (multimeter across LD+ and LD- or LD-/null). With the cathode facing the VCC+ using a 5.05V power supply (cell phone charger) the voltage drops only slightly to 4.98V. This is contradictory for what the forum post (linked previously) states? Is something wrong with my board?

Either way I am failing to lase, even using a fresh diode (operating under the assumption I fried the first one). Considering I have tinkered a bit with the diode(s) by now what is the likelihood it is burnt out? Is there a way to test for diode failure?

Sorry for the long post, really appreciate any advice and will respond with details/tests. Thanks
Click to expand...

For the diode, you want pin 1 (LD Anode) going to the + side of your driver and then pin 3 (Common) going to the GND side on the output of your driver. From the datasheet it looks like pin 3 is connected directly to the case, so you should be able to leave it floating and then connect your heatsink/module to the GND on the output of the driver. Really though, I'd just solder up a second wire to the common pin - rules out any issues with bad connections between the diode/module/heatsink that way.
 
C

CaseyKneale

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Jan 8, 2016
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@10Fenny - Thanks for the heads up that sometimes the boards aren't functional. I am suspecting that is the problem but I always hate to place any implication of blame on a manufacturer/distributer of parts when I am new to doing something. I'll order a couple more.

I don't think the PSU is the problem, granted, cellphone charges always have voltage ripple/noise. The ripple is never exceeding the operational capacity of the specified diode or board though. I do have some 18650 batteries laying around but the voltage is a little low, but may serve as a test.

@Diachi - Thank you. I may have actually been wiring my LD backwards, which could have fried it. I may have had my cathode and anode backwards (I always get those things backwards). I doubt it but it is possible now that I am not looking at it. So,

Pin 1 (Anode) -> VCC+
Pin 2 (Cathode) -> VCC-
Pin 3 (Common) -> ground(VCC-) or floats or attached to case

Can anyone explain to me what purpose the LD- (null) PCB trace does? Is it synonomous with LD- but allows for current measurements?
 
hakzaw1

hakzaw1

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HOPE I CAN HELP

Diachi has always been a great help here..

I do the easy customer help for AixiZ- and the majority are issues with drivers-
and I am sure while there can be DOAs- most were ok but not wired correct or were damaged while being wired- and since I have (most of the time) no real clue as to the knowledge level of the buyer .... sometimes this is not so easy- in your case I feel you are don't need much aside from a fix-

I would leave the TTL alone- you do not need to touch it to make your laser lase- IF you have it running OK and then de you want to be able to turn off and on
a lot and do it w/o risk to the diode THEN you need to used the ttl- in most cases 1 to 5 vdc put to the TTL will turn the laser off safely- this cannot be done safely by simply turning the power on & off--
no power to the ttl==== laser on full power.

Hope I have this correct- Im sure someone else will post here and correct me.

good luck hak
 
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CaseyKneale

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Thanks LEN,

I didn't reverse engineer the board by any means but it is hard to imagine the board came faulty given the components it uses. So I am edging further away from the notion of a dead on arrival purchase. Also not sure if it is user error by means of damage, I was pretty careful soldering and this isn't my first rodeo attaching leads to PCB traces. I'm thinking its the way the circuit is laid out.

Here is a cartoon schematic showing how I have the board configured and maybe that will help.



edit -
Once I figure out a solution as to how to lase using the diode mentioned I will upload a detailed schematic and information to help any passer-bys. This project is pretty integral to my research.
 
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C

CaseyKneale

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Oh wow, I think I figured out what I did wrong. This is a classy blunder.

So on reviewing the laser diode datasheet, for whatever reason I was placing ground to the PD anode rather then the common pin and VCC+ to the LD anode... So I am going to assume those LD's are toast, and use a fresh one wired properly. Thinking this will lead to success... Kind of funny seeing as how many PD circuits I've worked with in the past for detector schemes. Guess we all have to goof up in the beginning.
 
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diachi

diachi

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CaseyKneale said:
Oh wow, I think I figured out what I did wrong. This is a classy blunder.

So on reviewing the laser diode datasheet, for whatever reason I was placing ground to the PD anode rather then the common pin and VCC+ to the LD anode... So I am going to assume those LD's are toast, and use a fresh one wired properly. Thinking this will lead to success... Kind of funny seeing as how many PD circuits I've worked with in the past for detector schemes. Guess we all have to goof up in the beginning.
Click to expand...


That would probably stop it from working, well done for figuring it out! Let us know how you get on! :)
 
hakzaw1

hakzaw1

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-I must say you are the kind of customer we like- many assume they part was DOA-
they want to take short cuts- some wanted to 'check' thier diodes with a 9v battery-
duh!
or assume coz they heard no 'pop' or smelt burned electronics it must have NOT been something they did wrong-in most s cases the get a second part free & on most occasions we do not insist the old part be sent back--however-remember this//

when something goes wrong-- if you do not change something you will very likley get the same results & nobody gets a third bite free from the 'apple'----

AixiZ sells >100 items -and 'instructions for beginners' does not come with-- just the basics- only a low % already know what to do with the parts-BEFORE ordering-


If NOT- well they got ahead of themselves-- does Auto-Zone provide instructions when you buy a new rack and pinion- ??-- maybe the part maker does but not AZ.

I still do my best to help----
 
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