1st DIY Laser Project. 8x BDR-203. NEED IDEAS!!

Gentos type?

dr-ebert said:

All that you need for a constant-current driver is the LM317 (or LM1117 which has a lower dropout voltage), plus the current sense resistor/pot. Connect the resistor between the sense and Vout pins, and voila, a constant-current twopole. The other stuff (diodes, caps, mosfets) is just icing and may actually do more harm than good if you're not careful.

A Schottky diode is a semiconductor-metal contact instead of a p-n contact. It has a lower voltage drop but the main advantage is that it's ultrafast. Using it as reverse polarity protection is an insult

The best thing is to check the datasheets, they have good "application notes" (= circuit examples).

Click to expand...

Indeed, I'll have to study more about P-channel FET's before adding those in to the DDL Driver.

I'm hoping that I'll be able to make a really nice DDL Driver which incorporates the good points of the others, which might take a long time but...nonetheless...a fun experience

I have an idea why the Micro-drive is using the ceramic input cap with the MOSFET and imo its to filter out the noise from the FET.

I did some shopping today for some electronic parts and it took me the whole day

Okay, so I have finally received my DIY kit and I've purchased my 8x BDR-203 ($199). On top of that, I got that anti-static wrist band & the anti-static mat with that, as well as some other electronic parts.

The mat which I bought from this electronic store seems kinda really cheap and I had to use tape to join two of the anti-static pieces to increase the surface area for me to do my soldering etc. Next time, I'll buy a real one somewhere else

So, my first DIY is going to be a 3405 build with the 405-G-1 lens assembly with that Aixiz module Housing and sweet heatsink.

Stuff I have done so far:

1) Made my test load on a conventional circuit board which has the 6 1N4001 diodes wired in series to a 1ohm resistor.

Unfortunately, I was not able to purchase any 10440 batteries (which I need since all I have are the weak 1.5V AAA batteries) and when I tried to measure the output current from the driver with the load wired up, using my AAA batteries, I only got an output current of 2.04 mA which is due to the input voltage to begin with. Only a meager 4.5V input voltage when using those 3 AAA batteries. I found a place to purchase them nearby so I'll get them tomorrow.

From there, I'll measure current directly and adjust the pot to my desired current output.

Then, I'll start hacking up the sled in a very nice way

I'll add pictures soon.

Darkarmyofone said:

Gentos type?

Click to expand...

Oh, its just the brand name of it. I was shopping today at an electronic parts store and saw some of those hosts. I was busy shopping for other parts for my 1st DIY too though

:gun:
Finally my 1st DIY is accomplished.

Laser Diode = PHR-803T
25mA-400mA adjustable DDL Driver = Set at 230mA using my test load & DMM.
Host = MXDL 3405 build Host
Collimating Lens & Module = 405-G-1 lens Mod
Batteries = 3 x Ultrafire 10440 batteries (bought it at a local store)

Power: 230mA at ????mW
Burn level: Burned through wallpaper at around 80cm away at the farthest and burned through A4 paper when I tried it from around 50cm away.


I don't have a Calorimeter so I'm unable to tell what the power level is but, so far the output is stable even at 230mA. I've used it for more than 2 hours now in total. I hope it'll continue like this for a year.

I would have preferred the output to be more focused without the splash though.

I haven't gone around to my 8x diode yet but I will eventually after this PHR burns down which I hope will not happen in the near future

Here's a pic:




Now I'm gonna think about my 2nd DIY.

At 230mA through a PHR you won't have to wait long for it to be a beautiful, dim LED light.

You can reliably run a PHR up to about 120mA. After that, you are pushing it. Above 200mA you are firmly into the "experimental" range of inputs.

I have had some survive at 180mA, but they were rare.

Ask around. I've burned out a significant number of PHR's while we were learning about them.

Peace,
dave

daguin said:

At 230mA through a PHR you won't have to wait long for it to be a beautiful, dim LED light.

You can reliably run a PHR up to about 120mA. After that, you are pushing it. Above 200mA you are firmly into the "experimental" range of inputs.

I have had some survive at 180mA, but they were rare.

Ask around. I've burned out a significant number of PHR's while we were learning about them.

Peace,
dave

Click to expand...

Yup! You can say I'm in the experimental stage. I thought about keeping it at 130mA but then I wanted to see what this PHR can do at 230mA.

You see Dave, I don't even think that I'm focusing my PHR that well anyways, since I haven't pushed that diode in all the way into that Aixiz module. I know that thats the best way to get a perfect dot so perhaps in a couple of days or so, I'll attempt to push it a bit more.

Perhaps I'll use a step-up drill bit and open up the Aixiz module a little bit to allow a little room for that PHR to fit just right

Btw, I like the tests you have done with your 8x diode and so forth. It really gave me a lot of info on what I should be doing with my DIY.

I'll be harvesting my 8x diode sometime soon. I'm not done yet with my PHR just yet.

Anyways, I hope you'll find some way to try out the new 12x diode

Bottles - is your DDL driver going to be the same one you use in your 8x build? Just curious... I am working on my own 8x build and have not decided on the driver yet.

Nice build, and nice info too... welcome to the community! I'll be eager to check out your 8x build once done!

Bottles when your testing your module at first were you using a dummy load or did you ramp up?

Please elaborate on your testing method

jriga said:

Bottles - is your DDL driver going to be the same one you use in your 8x build? Just curious... I am working on my own 8x build and have not decided on the driver yet.

Nice build, and nice info too... welcome to the community! I'll be eager to check out your 8x build once done!

Click to expand...

Yes, I'm going to be using the same driver as the one I used in my first DIY.
I've set the driver to 360mA using my Bluepoint DMM

That should give me an output of more than 400mW like what Daguin and the rest of the 8timers have.

Thanks for the welcome! I've been away for some time...

jander6442 said:

Bottles when your testing your module at first were you using a dummy load or did you ramp up?

Please elaborate on your testing method

Click to expand...

I built my own test load dummy using diodes and resistors. I connected one end of the my DMM to the positive lead coming from the driver and I connected the other end of my DMM to one end of the test load dummy. Then I connected the other end of the test load dummy to the negative lead coming from the driver.

Then I set my DMM to mA and then measured after powering on the host.

Thats how I adjusted my driver!

And the diodes for emulate the dropout of a real LD ? ..... no diodes, only resistors, in the test load ?

HIMNL9 said:

And the diodes for emulate the dropout of a real LD ? ..... no diodes, only resistors, in the test load ?

Click to expand...

oops, wasn't thinking clearly there lol. I meant I used 6 diodes and one 1 ohm resistor in series as the test load dummy.

Oh, ok ..... but then, you don't need to use the DMM in serie with the load set in mA ..... just set it for mV, and measure the voltage at the leads of the 1 ohm resistor ..... in this way, you have 1 mA for each mV that you read, and the measure is also a bit more stable (some cheap DMM don't have a good internal low resistance, in low current measure ..... anyway this is relative)

Basically, is for this reason that dummy loasd are made in this way, for simplify the life of the users (and for try to emulate a real LD )


Edit: i mean this way

HIMNL9 said:

Oh, ok ..... but then, you don't need to use the DMM in serie with the load set in mA ..... just set it for mV, and measure the voltage at the leads of the 1 ohm resistor ..... in this way, you have 1 mA for each mV that you read, and the measure is also a bit more stable (some cheap DMM don't have a good internal low resistance, in low current measure ..... anyway this is relative)

Basically, is for this reason that dummy loasd are made in this way, for simplify the life of the users (and for try to emulate a real LD )

Click to expand...

Yup, just like how we humans use monkeys and animals as test subjects to a new medicine before we use it

Hurray! I have just finished taking apart the BDR-203 blu-ray burner.
I thought about buying the 12x blu-ray burner but I changed my mind.

The sled came out pretty easily but soldering the pins on the 8x laser diode was a pain in the butt

Anyhow, its all done so now I'm officially part of the 8x LD family!!!:gun:

I'll get to the 12x when I'm able to get those sleds at low cost.

Impression of the 8x LD laser pointer: The beam emitted from the 8x LD was more visible than the beam emitted from the PHR LD and it burned things at further distance. One more disturbing thing that happened which never occured when I used the PHR LD was that after playing around with that 8x LD, I could see this purplish dot clearly in the center of my vision even when I closed my eyes. This lasted for about 3 minutes or so until the effect died away. I'd say its time to get some glasses for this type of thing :scowl: