grainde
0
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2012
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Hi Guys I thought Id just post a few pics of a new build, I just completed for a member here. It might give some of you an idea of how I make my pen builds and help those of you who may have a pen host from sinner lying around. 
The host is made of pure copper and the 12 mm hole is actually a little smaller than 12 mm making it hard to press the diode in. This makes for exceptional heat transfer though, once you get it in... When trying this make sure you use, thermal paste (which also acts as a lubricant), a big vice and 2 blocks of sacrificial aluminium; one on either end of the laser and diode module respectively. You will mark the surface of the aluminium as you will have to press very hard, but it will protect the host. It will only be possible to press the module flush with the host, so you can use an aixiz metal focus ring, lined up in front of the module to press it the rest of the way. I only pushed it in a couple of extra mms.
Due to a shortage of drivers I ended up buying a completed module with a mini X-boost from DTR, so I dont have any pictures of showing how to set the current. In this case, DTR only had drivers with a fixed output of 520 mA anyway.
In the next image two part epoxy was used to strengthen the connection between the diode module and the driver. As you know the driver is soldered directly to the pins, this means it can move easily as the diode pins are very thin. Due to space restrictions in most pen builds, this is the way the driver is usually setup and this means the spring is attached directly to the driver. As such the battery pushes on the driver and so you dont want it bending away damaging the pins, or creating a short circuit. Sorry that the first few pics aren't very high quality, but they were taken on a phone in the basement.
You can also see how I picked up the negative, by drilling into the module, pressing a brass nail into the hole and soldering the negative wire from the Bat (-) on the driver to it.
The next three pictures show the addition of the spring and isolation of the driver from possible shorts with the inside of the host.
Here is the finished laser with polishing. The 10440 battery shown is the one used in the host and gives an idea of the actual size of the laser.
And we wouldn't be complete without a beam shot and at this time of year we have the compulsory shot with the Christmas tree!
The laser was metered on my Ophir head and outputs 844 mW @ 520 mA.
Thanks for reading and a merry Christmas to you all.:san::beer:
The host is made of pure copper and the 12 mm hole is actually a little smaller than 12 mm making it hard to press the diode in. This makes for exceptional heat transfer though, once you get it in...
When trying this make sure you use, thermal paste (which also acts as a lubricant), a big vice and 2 blocks of sacrificial aluminium; one on either end of the laser and diode module respectively. You will mark the surface of the aluminium as you will have to press very hard, but it will protect the host. It will only be possible to press the module flush with the host, so you can use an aixiz metal focus ring, lined up in front of the module to press it the rest of the way. I only pushed it in a couple of extra mms. Due to a shortage of drivers I ended up buying a completed module with a mini X-boost from DTR, so I dont have any pictures of showing how to set the current. In this case, DTR only had drivers with a fixed output of 520 mA anyway.
In the next image two part epoxy was used to strengthen the connection between the diode module and the driver. As you know the driver is soldered directly to the pins, this means it can move easily as the diode pins are very thin. Due to space restrictions in most pen builds, this is the way the driver is usually setup and this means the spring is attached directly to the driver. As such the battery pushes on the driver and so you dont want it bending away damaging the pins, or creating a short circuit. Sorry that the first few pics aren't very high quality, but they were taken on a phone in the basement.
You can also see how I picked up the negative, by drilling into the module, pressing a brass nail into the hole and soldering the negative wire from the Bat (-) on the driver to it.
The next three pictures show the addition of the spring and isolation of the driver from possible shorts with the inside of the host.
Here is the finished laser with polishing.
The 10440 battery shown is the one used in the host and gives an idea of the actual size of the laser.
And we wouldn't be complete without a beam shot and at this time of year we have the compulsory shot with the Christmas tree!
The laser was metered on my Ophir head and outputs 844 mW @ 520 mA.
Thanks for reading and a merry Christmas to you all.:san::beer:
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