10x Blu ray Burner from Buffalo

ZRTMWA said:

..... Damn!!!!! That means 12x diodes will possibly be able to be pushed to 900mW, if Sanyo is right about the 12x's putting out 450mW whilst still in the Blu Ray burner!!!!!!! .....

Click to expand...

Uh, well, maybe yes, but i'm wondering about two things ..... how we can fit A size batteries in a keychain / per style holder, with this diode , and how much seconds the diode last at 900mW, before turn led (or start to burn the finger of the person that hold it, LOL )

I mean ..... after all, actual 6x, drived at 350mA, giving 300mW, consumes (and dissipate) 1,7 / 1,8 W, mainly in heat (except ofcourse the output power) ..... 8X, as far as i've read on the forum, seems a bit more efficents, but still eating 2 / 2,1 W ..... if a 12X can be pushed at 900 mW, it probably needs something like 750 / 800 mA, that with a possible FV of 6V, in the worse possible case, may mean 4,8W, with 3,9W dissipated in heat (i repeat, in the worse imaginable conditions ..... anyway, enough for put your module at 90 C in 10 seconds, or few more )

themandalorian: LarryDFW was just answering my question about at what mW 8x diodes ran in the actual blu ray burners, so we could figure out at what mW 12x diodes might be pushed to.

HIMNL9: Get a huge heatsink like the one in the MXDL host. Maybe jayrob can special make it out of copper. You could remove the heatsink and put it into a fridge/freezer if you knew you wanted to use the laser later (possibly maybe?). I wonder if it will be possible to use a standard 9V battery with one of these diodes, if an 8x is being run at 5-6V. There is probably a flashlight somewhere on DX that runs off of a 9V battery. What drivers can run at 800ma? I don't think rckstr or flexdrives would work.

Oh yeah, 900mW would be with a jayrob lens or another blu ray lens not just the diode.

I doubt that you can use a 9V battery, cause they don't have enough current, first ..... and also, considering the dropout of the regulator, it's not enough (at leas twith a linear driver) ..... and about flexdrive, it's rated for a maximum output voltage of 5,5V (the absolute maximum ratings says 6V, but it's the limit "just-before-break" ..... using it with a diode that have a FV over 5,5V, means almost made it work in open-output condition, or at least in a highly unstable condition .....

IMHO, it needs a new design of boost driver (for use one or two lithium cells), or a linear driver with at least 11 or 12 V of input voltage (and in these conditions, 800mA are not a big problem, cause 1117 and similar can keep 1A without too much problems, well heatsinked)


Edit: anyway, is always possible use a host that hold 3 lithium cells and a linear driver made using 1117 ..... nominal 10,8V, less 800mV dropout of 1117, less some minor dissipations, still leave enough voltage for run also a 12X (how much minutes it run, anyway, it's another discussion ..... can say, on-the-fly, that with 3 x 15226 or similar, can probably last 10 to 15 minutes, not more, before discharge under the safety level)

HIMNL9;

There are several issues with higher-power diodes.

1. Battery - It will take a #18650 battery to deliver the power required for a boost driver.

2. Driver - I have used a LDO linear regulator w/ 2 Li-Ion batteries to deliver 6 VDC or
Switching boost driver with single #18650

3. Heat dissipation - will require heatsinks with more surface area exposed to outside of host.

Higher Power will require some design changes !


LarryDFW

^ for sure !

First that come in mind, for me, is some sort of copper heatsink (or something good enough for heat transfer, maybe brass, more hard mechanically than copper and more easy to work), better if with direct press-fit, or also better, screw-fit, of the diode, and at least a 50/50 report from fins and mass, and improved shape for maximize the surface in contact with air ..... but the shape that i have in mind, is difficult to obtain at hobby level (probably someone like you or some other professional machine workers can build them, anyway it's not easy, cause also it require threading for fit the lens module (glass in metal, like your one or aixiz, no acrylate lenses with plastic holders) and one more part as focusing knob, cause with these powers, it's not the better thing to use the normal 12mm focusing rings (if you keep at the health of your fingertips, at least )

Then, if 3 cells can be fit in the host, the linear driver is the better choice ..... can also be improved for use part of the host as heatsink for the driver, and can also be put a secondary circuit for protect the LD from overheating (with a similar configuration, no more need to keep the driver pen-size )

Being sincere, the unit can also work with 2 cells, if they are high current ones, but then the limits are very stricts ..... 6V the diode, 1 V dropout at high current, batteries works well only til 3,5 V each one, then the power start to decrease ..... less heat from the regulator, but also less autonomy, someway ..... need to order a pair of new 18650 and made some tests, for have a better idea, about how much two of them can last with these currents.

HIMNL9;

This is a photo of my 8X BluRay build:


The 2 #18650's + LDO driver will deliver 6.5 VDC easily.

Heatsinking is good for 3 watts continuous.

It weights about 10 ounces with batteries.

LarryDFW

Possible host? Pretty Expensive for a host though. It can take 3x CR123A or 2x 18650: DealExtreme: $46.50 Conqueror M-C3 3*Cree LED Flashlight (3*123A/2*18500)

Here is another I just found. It is in stock and is $20 cheaper:
DealExtreme: $30.92 Conqueror MX-600 Philips Xenon Flashlight with Extension Tube (2x18650/2xCR123A)

The second one comes apart in many peices and looks preferable for a build. Enter new kit from jayrob.

Oh wait just found some more:

DealExtreme: $46.90 Mega 5*Cree P4-WC LED Flashlight (2*18650) (only uses 2x 18650)

DealExtreme: $19.90 Cree XR-E LED Flashlight Complete DIY Body Shell/Casing Kit with Driver Pill (4*CR123A/2*18650) (4x CR123A or 2x 18650)

There are many more on DX that can use 2x18650 or 3-4x CR123A's.

Edit: LarryDFW, you beat me to it. Oooh lala! Nice build. That looks like a Romisen host.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15685
Is that a 405-G-1 lens? What is the mW output? What heatsinking material did you use? I am not good with electronics but how do all of these types of drivers function differently? Thanks.

ZRTMWA said:

Edit: LarryDFW, you beat me to it. Oooh lala! Nice build. That looks like a Romisen host.
DealExtreme: $58.99 Romisen RC-T6 6*Cree Q4-WC 3-Mode 500-Lumen Mega LED Flashlight Black (1-4*CR123A/18650)
Is that a 405-G-1 lens? What is the mW output? What heatsinking material did you use? I am not good with electronics but how do all of these types of drivers function differently? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Absolutely NOT a sloppy-thread 405 G1 lens assembly !!

It is a brass machined Hi-Power lens assembly w/close tolerance threads.

It is all aluminum, but I am playing with some copper sinks.

I am keeping it ~ 225mw for long-term industrial applications (30 min.).

The LDO driver is "low-dropout" linear type which will only lose about 0.25 volts. Since two #18650 batteries start @ 8.4 VDC, it has almost full capacity to work with.

It is not a Romisen host.

I looked at five or six before deciding on the best host.

LarryDFW

Schweet. Where did you get your LDO driver? Are there any members that sell them? Thanks. All we need now is a pure synthetic (or natural) diamond heatsink to run a 12x for 30 minutes. How much would that kit cost jayrob?

well, compared to (current) LED flashlights, our electrical needs are still somewhat cute.. ;-)
people build flashlights with 7x 3w LEDs, maybe even overdriven, in such a host. sure, temperature may be less of a problem with LEDs compared to LDs, but hey, I dont think we will find serious problems here soon. there are people building 5w IR handhelds too.

I am curious what DrLava is doing at the moment.. I bet there will be something coming soon! (no, its only a guess)

as an example whats being built since some time already:
Sandwich Shoppe
sandwich shoppe's blue shark, 19mm diameter

# Input voltage range: 2.7V - ~25V (Vin < Vout)
# Maximum input current: 4A
# Output Current: Adjustable on board trim pot - 50mA - 980mA
# Output Voltage: ~32V

thats way over 20w output! sure, its not really useable for us, but damn, isnt that impressive?

manuel

Krutz said:

...I am curious what DrLava is doing at the moment.. I bet there will be something coming soon! (no, its only a guess)...

Click to expand...

I heard he could be coming out with a driver for 8x's and 12x's. So could a driver be taken out of a flashlight that had a similar voltage and used with an LD?(I know, really noobish question)?

LarryDFW said:

HIMNL9;

This is a photo of my 8X BluRay build:

The 2 #18650's + LDO driver will deliver 6.5 VDC easily.

Heatsinking is good for 3 watts continuous.

It weights about a pound.

LarryDFW

Click to expand...

Well, you can easily use it both for laser fun and self-defense ..... it just need some spikes, then it look a bit like a spiked mace (j/k, no offense, ok ? )

Must run now, tomorrow i post a draw about my idea, then you can say me if it is realizable, or just one of my bad dreams

BTW, LT1377 is giving me some results, but still not good as i want ..... but better than the previous ones, anyway ..... if just had some more time for experiments

HIMNL9 said:

Well, you can easily use it both for laser fun and self-defense ..... it just need some spikes, then it look a bit like a spiked mace (j/k, no offense, ok ? )...

Click to expand...

For your sake, I hope your drawing doesn't involve 2x 18650's because all of the hosts on DX looked like that. I don't really mind them if it puts out over .75 W 405nm.

ZRTMWA said:

For your sake, I hope your drawing doesn't involve 2x 18650's

Click to expand...

No, no, i just used a pair of lantern batteries ..... LOL, J/K

Seriously, this host, i'm searching some workers, around here, that can produce it, but the ones i asked, til now, said me that don't have time (but i suspect they don't have the knowledge about how to make it, cause are not specialized in this type of works) ..... the only mechanical place that can made it right as my draws, asked me for a lot of time, and already said me that it ends not exactly cheap, due to the type of specifications i want, so for now i'm stopped, and still have only the plans ..... so, if someone want to try to DIY it, here are the main draws, and if you need, i post also all the measures and details.

As concept, is this :



Must end looking approximatively this shape (bad drawed )



And i'm sure that there is enough space for the driver, for include also a safety control circuit for shut it down in case of diode overheating (it's just 2 transistors and few resistors, after all) ..... also, can be used both tailcap switch or side button switch, and if built with both of them, the tailcap switch can be used as general safety switch (it turn on just the led over the button, for advice that the unit is "ready to fire"), and the side button is used for lase (it does not require any supplementary wiring, after all )

I had drawed the focusing part in 2 ways, but this one (that moves in and out when you turn it, as normally happen) is the more easy one ..... the other system i had planned, that rotate but do not move in and out, require a lot more work and the modification of the lens holder too, so it's probably better not use it) ..... and for avoid "shaking" (wobbling ?) of the lens holder, can be used both an o-ring, or also made a space for a spring at the external of the lens space (i hate springs inside the diode space)

What do you think, is it realizable, or is just another of my crazy nightmares ?

Geez are you gonna patent that thing? Great drawing although I though you were just drawing a circuit diagram for the driver. How expensive is brass compared to copper? I can see this being really expensive and taking a lot of time.

I guess so ..... brass is a bit less expensive of pure copper, and is a bit more easy to work, cause "stick" less on tools, but still need patience and experience, for get a good work.

Yes, i also think my draw is not easy, i tried to design something that have big thermal efficency, so no heatsink around an aixiz module ..... the diode go directy in the heatsink part, is kept in place from a threaded ring, and the remaining space rear it can be filled of thermal grease ..... and in case the thermal protection circuit become used, the probe (little glass-passivated NTC, a pair of mm of diameter) can be put in the thermal grease between the pins of the diode.

The only big difference is that with this mount, you can't solder directly the module on the diode pins, but with all this space, i guess cannot be a big problem

I also thought to made the finned part in two different pieces, screwed one on the other (placing a threaded part where there is the third "throat" between the third and fourth fins), so the mounting part of the diode / driver can be done more easy, but this is one more working step to do, and don't know if it worth the effort.