Hello from Ames, IA

thestug · Nov 6, 2014

Hello everyone. My Name is Sturling and I have been bitten by the laser building bug. My personal hobbies include hobby grade RC and flashlights. I've recently been researching quite a bit about lasers and stumbled across LPF. I've been lurking for a while absorbing quite a massive amount of information and I feel like it's time to join.

I've already ordered a few parts for my 1W 445nm laser build, so I figured it was time that I join. I'm currently working on picking which laser diode that I want to use and I'm quite lost on the different lenses and what they do. I'll be ordering some Eagle Pair glasses here soon as they seem to be very well respected on the forums here.

I'm also looking information on how to set-up a diode and driver properly as I'm new to all this.

I'd love to hear any suggestions you guys might have.

NightExplorer96 · Nov 6, 2014

Welcome to the forums!

-Alex

ChaosLord · Nov 6, 2014

Welcome to LPF!

3-element glass lenses tend to produce a better beam and "dot".
G glass lenses have a bit worse beam specs, but increase the power by as much as 30%.

If you get your diode from DTR, you can get a driver attached ready to go.

thestug · Nov 6, 2014

Thanks, guys. I was looking at the diodes that DTR had and was likely where I was going to order from. I have a 1.25A fixed driver. Will this driver work to power a 445nm M140 diode from DTR somewhat conservatively? I want this laser to last.

I'm forgoing the diodes with the drivers pre-attached for now as it feels more "authentic" if I put everything together myself. I really try to build things when I can. I learn more that way.

Also, I'm assuming that the 3-element lens can be focused down to point for burning like the G lenses can? I'd prefer the nicer beam, but I'd rather not have to give up being able to focus the laser intensely.

Also, can anyone explain why there are so many links at the top of the page that don't take me anywhere? Is this site feature under construction?

seoirse009 · Nov 8, 2014

Welcome to LPF bud, I am new around here myself. You should definitely check out sflasers.us if you want to buy a few lasers without building them. I hope to build my own someday.

-Georgie

:lasergun:

Hemlock_Mike · Nov 9, 2014

Stug -- If you have the basic tools, build it yourself!!! As for lenses, it depends on what you want for a beam.
HMike - Clear Lake (north of you)

thestug · Nov 9, 2014

Hemlock_Mike said:
Stug -- If you have the basic tools, build it yourself!!! As for lenses, it depends on what you want for a beam.
HMike - Clear Lake (north of you)

My hometown is pretty close to Clear Lake. I'm actually currently in college in Ames.

What are some recommended specialty tools for building Lasers? I figure I might need diode presses or something eventually.

I think I have all the basic stuff I might need for basic mechanical and electrical work. I allen wrenches, pliers, wire strippers, soldering irons, and three different multimeters. I have no idea how I have three. They just kind of appear.:crackup:

Nute · Nov 9, 2014

Welcome aboard. All I used was a test load, a multi meter, flux, a soldering iron and a small vice. The first build seems to make everyone nervous, I just finished mine yesterday, and currently planning my next one! I knew nothing of building lasers, but these guys here are truly great people. I'm sure you will find the answers to all of your questions here as I did. The Diode/Driver combo you chose looks good, 1w+ and rather conservative. DTR is an amazing person to deal with, so that should go very smoothly for you. I hope this helps you.

As far as the links at the top of LPF, I've yet to figure that out myself.

Also, I would look into a quality pair of laser safety glasses prior to your build if you haven't acquired any already. A 1w 445nm beam can do an insane amount of irreversible permanent damage faster than the eye can blink. Eagle Pair seem to be quite popular here. They can be purchased through DTR and Survival Laser.

thestug · Nov 9, 2014

Nute said:
Welcome aboard. All I used was a test load, a multi meter, flux, a soldering iron and a small vice. The first build seems to make everyone nervous, I just finished mine yesterday, and currently planning my next one! I knew nothing of building lasers, but these guys here are truly great people. I'm sure you will find the answers to all of your questions here as I did. The Diode/Driver combo you chose looks good, 1w+ and rather conservative. DTR is an amazing person to deal with, so that should go very smoothly for you. I hope this helps you.

As far as the links at the top of LPF, I've yet to figure that out myself.

Also, I would look into a quality pair of laser safety glasses prior to your build if you haven't acquired any already. A 1w 445nm beam can do an insane amount of irreversible permanent damage faster than the eye can blink. Eagle Pair seem to be quite popular here. They can be purchased through DTR and Survival Laser.

Thanks, I plan on getting some eagle pair glasses for my laser. However, I'm not sure which pair would serve me best.

It looks like there are Three Eagle pair glasses that would suit my laser.

Eagle Pair® 190-540nm Standard Laser Safety Goggles

Eagle Pair® 190-540nm & 900-1700nm Laser Safety Goggles

Eagle Pair® 190-540nm & 800-1700nm OD5 Laser Safety Goggles

I'm not sure which would be the best one to choose. I assume the most expensive one would probably be the best one if I can afford it?

Down with Umbrella · Nov 9, 2014

Hey, go to Des Moines and pick up a Zombie burger!

If you use your 1.25A driver you should achieve 1600mW with a g2 lens and my guess around 1200mW with the 3 element. One thing to note about the 3element lens is it tends to have "wings" on the side of the beam.
Don't forget the heat sink. Do you have a host?
Jefferson

Personally I would choose the second link you posted for glasses

thestug · Nov 10, 2014

I've been to Zombie Burger in Des Moines and it is excellent. I'd highly recommend their food.

Yep, I have a Aurora C6 host (unmarked?) and blue anodized heatsink.

Also, what is your reasoning for picking the glasses in the second link? Wouldn't the 3rd link offer protection from more wavelengths?

Down with Umbrella · Nov 10, 2014

I went out to Ames last year to visit my friend at vet school. We went to zombie burger, October fest and skeet shooting. I had a blast.

My reasoning is the OD5s are rated up to 100W. You're dealing with 1.2W. Unless you plan on working with high Watt co2s or <10W 445s the OD5s are over kill plus more money. Also you will get 10% less light transmission with the OD5s.
For your purpose I suggest the option 2. Cheaper, more visibility and still solid protection. These are the pair that I own and they work just fine even with my dual 3.5W 445 build.

However if you feel you want the OD5s by all means purchase them.

Did you say you got your driver from survival laser? That set up should make a nice little laser. Press the driver in the pill carefully. What batteries do you have?

thestug · Nov 10, 2014

I plan on building a green laser eventually, but I've heard that many of them emit 808nm as well as 532nm. That's really the only reason I was considering getting the glasses from link #3. I'm not sure if I really need to be concerned about 808nm or not.

Yep, i've got a 1.25A fixed current driver from Survival Laser. However, isn't the driver board supposed to be a press fit into the brass ring? Mine seems to fall right in. The brass ring and aluminum pill however seems like it will take considerable force to get it to press fit. I don't know that I have any tools that would be suitable for pressing it in.

The batteries that I have are some AW RCR123a protected cells. However, they seem to have a lot of play since the OD of the batteries are much smaller than the ID of the battery tube.

Down with Umbrella · Nov 10, 2014

thestug said:
I plan on building a green laser eventually, but I've heard that many of them emit 808nm as well as 532nm. That's really the only reason I was considering getting the glasses from link #3. I'm not sure if I really need to be concerned about 808nm or not.

Valid point, I was actually going to address this in my next post(this one). The op refers to 445nm so that's why I suggested link number two. I do believe 532nm modules use an 808 diode. If you plan on buying your own 808 diode, crystal and optics you might want to purchase the extra protection. However, decent 532 lasers come with ir filters that would protect you. The cheap ebay pens that don't come with filters leak IR (some more, some a lot) could be fitted with an easily obtained filter.
IR Filter Lens High 532nm Laser Transmittance 2pcs Pac | eBay

The driver.
Carefully Solder the brass ring to the (-) contact pads on the driver. You might need to file the edges of the board THEN press that into the Aluminum pill. You shouldn't need a special tool just a firm straight press with your thumb will usually seat it or flat on a desk. I've built many and haven't broke one yet.

The extra space in the battery tube. I usually get one of those clear plastic folders from staples, cut it and roll it up and put it into the battery tube so the batteries have less play. Know what I mean?

3Pig · Nov 10, 2014

thestug said:
Yep, i've got a 1.25A fixed current driver from Survival Laser. However, isn't the driver board supposed to be a press fit into the brass ring? Mine seems to fall right in. The brass ring and aluminum pill however seems like it will take considerable force to get it to press fit. I don't know that I have any tools that would be suitable for pressing it in.

It's supposed hard to press the driver into the pill, you need something like a vice or a good c clamp to press it, you can try improvise if you need to though. Could try using a block of wood and a hammer.

Down with Umbrella · Nov 10, 2014

Hmm you're right they do press hard but I'm not sure I would use a hammer. The brass ring is beveled to fit into the pill. Make sure you put the driver in with the wires pointing towards the diode so the driver/ring press in at the right direction.

Try pressing it in on a flat surface then if that doesn't work maybe try a vice. You just don't want to break the driver or harm the soft aluminum threads.

Hello from Ames, IA

thestug

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